Wine Country Eats: Joel Palmer House Restaurant

Posted on Aug 14, 2024


Chris Czarnecki & Levi Seed.

Joel Palmer House, a venerable institution in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, is celebrated for its distinctive focus on wild mushrooms and aged Oregon Pinot Noir. Dining at the restaurant is a culinary journey through the valley’s finest offerings, presented in an atmosphere that is sophisticated yet unpretentious. At the helm are Executive Chef/Owner Christopher Czarnecki and Director of Hospitality/Lead Sommelier Levi Seed, whose shared passion and expertise continue to elevate the Joel Palmer House to new heights.

Joel Palmer House restaurant.

The Joel Palmer House was built in 1857 by Joel Palmer, a prominent figure in Oregon’s early history. Palmer was not only a pioneer and military leader but also played a significant role in the establishment of the Oregon Trail.

The house, with its charming Victorian architecture, has been beautifully preserved, offering a glimpse into the past while providing a warm and welcoming ambiance for guests.

Christopher Czarnecki, a fourth-generation chef, has led the Joel Palmer House since 2006. His deep passion for cooking and respect for his family’s culinary traditions inspire him to infuse innovation into the restaurant’s menu while respecting time-honored recipes that have been passed down through generations. His commitment to sourcing local, seasonal ingredients are the cornerstones of his culinary philosophy.

Executive Chef/Proprietor Chris Czarnecki.

Chris’ earliest memory of working in the original family restaurant was working beside his grandmother at the service bar as a child, “I started out decorating desserts in fifth grade and then I started running food out and bussing tables in around the seventh grade. It’s definitely in my blood…I literally lived upstairs above the restaurant when we were back east since I was about 3 years old so all those smells just wafting up got into my genes.”

This early exposure to the culinary world instilled in him a profound appreciation for the artistry of cooking and the importance of using fresh, high-quality ingredients.

Always fresh and local.

His dedication to sustainability and local sourcing is evident in every dish. Working closely with local farmers and foragers—affectionately known as the ‘mushroom mafia’—Chris ensures that only the finest ingredients make their way into his kitchen. This commitment not only supports the local economy but also allows guests to savour the true flavors of the Willamette Valley with respect to both the food and wine.

When we dined at the Joel Palmer House over a decade ago, the experience was markedly different from what we encountered this time around. As we learned from Chris, much of this change was driven by the global pandemic, which accelerated his plans for adaptation.

The restaurant underwent a significant renovation in 2022.

With Covid limiting operations to less than 50% capacity, Chris had to find ways to sustain the restaurant while serving fewer guests. He shifted the restaurant’s approach from an à la carte menu to two distinct prix fixe options: “Mushroom Madness,” which showcases the restaurant’s specialty, and the “Omakase” option, a Japanese term meaning “chef’s choice.”

Elevating the wine selection was also a focus and the restaurant’s cellar now boasts the largest collection of Willamette Valley wines in the world.

2017 Lingua Franca “La Bête” Pinot Noir.

“Initially, many people insisted that we needed to include Burgundy, California, and other well-known regions on our wine list.” Chris tells us. “But I felt strongly that visitors come here from all over the world to experience Oregon wine specifically. I didn’t want to offer wines they could find anywhere else. So, we decided to focus on smaller producers—wineries and wines that you simply can’t buy outside of the state, and some truly exclusive selections as well. Our goal is to showcase the very best that Oregon has to offer.”

The wine program at the Joel Palmer House is nothing short of exceptional. With a focus on aged Oregon Pinot Noir, their unparalleled selection of wines perfectly complement the mushroom-centric menu.

Director of Hospitality & Lead Sommelier Levi Seed.

Its evolution is thanks in large part to Levi Seed, the Director of Hospitality and Certified Sommelier at the Joel Palmer House. His expertise in wine pairing and his keen understanding of guest service are integral to the dining experience at the Joel Palmer House.

Levi’s ascent as one of the USA’s top up-and-coming sommeliers has been nothing short of meteoric. At not even 30 years old, he’s already nominated for Wine Enthusiast’s prestigious 40 Under 40 award. Even if he doesn’t take home the title this year, there’s no doubt it’s only a matter of time before he receives that well-deserved recognition.

And don’t be misled by his youthful appearance—he’s overcome more challenges than many twice his age. As a childhood cancer survivor, he had to battle the disease while also catching up on three years of lost credits during his senior year of high school. Despite these obstacles, he not only graduated on time but also earned the President’s Award for Academic Achievement.

The restaurant works with Rose & Arrow for its house Cuvee.

Levi’s maturity and focus are well beyond his years, and at the core of it all is a passion for wine and food that is infectious. That combined with his warm and welcoming demeanor ensures that every guest feels like a valued member of the Joel Palmer House family. His ability to seamlessly blend professionalism with hospitality creates an atmosphere that is genuinely inviting.

The Joel Palmer House Restaurant is more than just a dining destination; it’s a culinary journey that celebrates the rich heritage and natural beauty of Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Under the visionary leadership of Chris Czarnecki and the impeccable hospitality of Levi Seed, the restaurant sets the standard for excellence in the region.

The signature mushroom soup.

When we mentioned to Chris that we believed the Joel Palmer House was Michelin star material, he acknowledged that while such an accolade would be welcome, it wasn’t his primary focus. “Many chefs chase stars, but for me, it’s about feeding my family and friends. That’s why I do what I do. My main role isn’t just being a chef; it’s taking care of my team. If I get that right, everything else falls into place.”

Chris perfectly captured the essence of the Joel Palmer House when we asked what he wanted people to take away from the experience: “It’s hard to put into words. It’s something that’s best experienced firsthand. Without investors or partners, we have the freedom to steer this ship according to our vision. I’m standing on the shoulders of giants, trying to take the next steps forward. We’re balancing on the knife’s edge of 100 years of history while striving to stay fresh and relevant.”

We couldn’t have said it better ourselves.

 

Setting the standard in the Valley.

Joel Palmer House

600 Ferry Street

Dayton, Oregon 97114

Reservations:

T: (503) 864-2995

E: info@joelpalmerhouse.com

H: Tuesday to Saturday 430pm – Close

R: Reservations — The Joel Palmer House Restaurant

5 Comments

  1. lwg.mine@gmail.com'

    When I hear sourcing local and seasonal ingredients, it stops me for a second look. Especially appealing are the prix fixe options here and “…the largest collection of Willamette wines in the world”. There’s a third though, the philosophy Chris shared with you. Now I know where M and I will dine the next time in Dayton, Oregon!

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  2. martindredmond@gmail.com'

    Chris & Levi make quite the dynamic duo! Loving the backstories and history of the Palmer House. Sounds and looks like a memorable experience. You can give me aged PN and mushrooms ANYtime!

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    • Such a great pairing! And their cellar is wine geek worthy!

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  3. mcauleylouise@gmail.com'

    Love taking visitors to joelpalmer house. 5 course meal is a lot of food. But be sure and save room for dessert! Mushroom cotton candy on top of crem Brule

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    • That dessert is a definite must…great advice!

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