Joan Sangenis Juncosa.
In a region celebrated for its modern renaissance, this 245-year-old family estate reflects what Priorat has always been.
The cobblestones beneath our feet are worn smooth by centuries of harvest traffic. On our left stands a stone building more than 300 years old; on our right, its younger sibling from 1850, built because the family needed more space.
This is Celler Cal Pla in Porrera, and within minutes of meeting Joan Sangenis Juncosa, we came to understand that ‘more space’ has been a recurring theme here since 1780.
Celler Cal Pla.
Joan is the 10th generation of his family to make wine on this site. He delivers this fact without ceremony, the way one might mention the weather. But as he guides us through the winery’s twin buildings, separated by that ancient cobblestone lane, the weight of continuity becomes impossible to ignore.
For readers unfamiliar with Priorat’s geography and history, a brief orientation: this compact wine region in Catalonia’s Tarragona province earned Spain’s second DOQ (Denominació d’Origen Qualificada) designation in 2000, joining only Rioja at the country’s highest quality tier. The distinction recognizes not merely tradition but proven excellence; wines of consistent character tied inseparably to place.
The town of Porrera in the shadow of terraced vineyards.
That place is defined by llicorella, the fractured slate soils that force vine roots deep into hillsides, yielding concentrated fruit from naturally low yields. Grenache (Garnatxa) and Carignan (Cariñena) dominate the red plantings, while white varieties including Grenache Blanc, Macabeu, and Picpoul occupy smaller parcels.
The modern Priorat story typically begins in the late 1980s with the so-called “magnificent five”, a group of winemakers who transformed a region of bulk wine producers into one of Spain’s most prestigious appellations. Their influence is undeniable. But Cal Pla reminds us that something existed before the renaissance, and that something never left.
“There are lots of new wineries and modern ones in Priorat,” Joan acknowledges, “but here still has a bit of the old Priorat too.”
Joan introducing us to Priorat wine history.
A bit is an understatement. The estate’s production of 100,000 kilograms of grapes annually (roughly 80% red varieties, 20% white), makes it unusually large for a family operation. Yet nothing about Cal Pla feels industrial. The winery runs on accumulated wisdom, each generation adding a layer rather than erasing what came before.
“Every generation has introduced something,” Joan explains. “One building the winery, another presenting the wines at expositions, another investing in barrels. In the end, we have a long history of family.”
Evidence of that history adorns the walls: Catalonian slogans in faded paint, and a certificate from 1929 recognizing a gold medal awarded to Cal Pla’s 1928 vintage at the Barcelona Wine Exposition. Joan’s great-grandfather earned that honor. His eldest son, currently finishing studies at an enology school, represents the eleventh generation preparing to carry it forward.
Looking into one of the concrete tanks.
The older building houses fermentation, where stainless steel tanks share space with concrete vessels that have seen two centuries of harvests. We crouch looking into one of these concrete giants with its 15,000-kilogram capacity, roughly three times the size of the modern steel tanks above it.
“It’s a little harder work [using the concrete tanks],” Joan admits, “but perfect for fermenting.”
Five of these concrete tanks remain operational between the two buildings, quiet monuments to an era when winemaking infrastructure was built to outlast dynasties.
Across the cobblestones, the 1850 building serves as barrel aging and bottle storage. Here, among rows of French oak, Joan pauses at a particular cask. “1876,” he says. “We still use it.”
Inside the barrel room.
The barrel is chestnut, not oak, a material once common before the international standardization of cooperage. That a 149-year-old vessel remains in active service captures something essential about Cal Pla’s philosophy: if it works, and if it contributes, it stays.
Like most Priorat estates before the modern era, Cal Pla sold wine in bulk, by the barrel, for generations. The family began bottling only in 1986. Joan shows us the bottling line with evident pride, and a self-aware laugh.
“At nearly 40 years old, it’s the ‘new’ part of our winery compared to the history of our family winemaking, which goes back hundreds of years.”
Bottles from the 1997 vintage.
What distinguishes Cal Pla’s approach is the commitment to extended aging. Reds rest in bottle a minimum of two years before release, often five, six or even seven. The whites which include Grenache Blanc, Xarel·lo, Picpoul, and Macabeu, spend nine months in barrel followed by three years in bottle. The oldest vintages currently available date to 2016; the oldest bottle in the cellar is from that inaugural 1986 vintage (the first vintage of bottling).
This patience requires capital, space, and faith. Faith that the market will value wines released long after their peers have been consumed.
The entrance to one of the winery buildings.
Cal Pla’s vineyard holdings include parcels of staggering age. Four hectares carry 90-year-old vines; another two hectares were planted in 1910, just after phylloxera’s devastation, making them 115 years old. These ancient plants yield the intensity that defines great Priorat: concentrated Carignan, expressive Grenache, with small plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon adding structure to certain cuvées.
The white varieties receive equal attention, their freshness and mineral spine a counterpoint to the region’s reputation for powerful reds.
Our visits earlier in the day to Gritelles and Clos Figueras had showcased Priorat’s modern movement—sleek facilities, contemporary winemaking, and international ambition.
Celebrating tradition at Cal Pla.
Both produce excellent wines. But Cal Pla occupies a different position on the spectrum, one where tradition isn’t just marketing language but a lived reality.
Standing in that barrel room, surrounded by chestnut and oak spanning nearly 150 years, we found ourselves thinking about what we lose when we optimize for efficiency alone. Cal Pla’s 200-year-old concrete tanks aren’t relics, they’re functional tools producing wine that tastes of this specific place and this specific family’s stewardship.
Joan Sangenis Juncosa doesn’t need to argue for tradition’s value. He simply opens a bottle, pours a glass, and lets the wine which is concentrated and unmistakably Priorat, make the case for itself.
Tasting Notes
2021 Cal Pla Mas d’en Compte.
2021 Cal Pla Mas d’en Compte (White)
Medium gold in colour, this is a blend of 55% Garnacha Blanco, 25% Picpoul and 20% Xarel-lo. Medium+ body with good acidity this is a round, mouth-filling wine that showcases orchard fruits of pear and apple. There is a lovely streak of minerality that adds both complexity and definition. Lively and fresh with texture as well, this is a very complete wine that would pair very well with white meats as well as any seafood. Excellent
2014 Cal Pla Mas d’en Compte
We were treated to this back vintage from their cellar. This wine was beautiful and clearly demonstrated that the wines of Cal Pla have an ability to age and develop more nuance and complexity over time. With 12 years of age, the colour has moved to a deep gold. Rich and round we pick up notes of pear with a hint of honeycomb. Loads of complexity. This is serious wine and was built for enjoying with food. A real winner. Excellent
2022 Cal Pla Mas d’en Compte.
2022 Cal Pla Mas d’en Compte (Red)
A blend of 50% Garnacha, 45% Carignan and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is the classic blend for the Priorat region. Dark cherry and plum flavours are delivered on a medium body. The tannins are ripe and polished and provide just the right structure to make this wine serious but geared for early enjoyment. Subtle notes of dried herbs and earth add to the complexity of this wine. Pleasure-driven and ready for immediate consumption this was a great segue into the reds of the region and shows the Priorat style. Very Good+
2018 Cal Pla Mas d’en Comte (Red)
Given the upfront pleasure from the 2022 version of this wine, we were pleasantly surprised by just how well this wine had aged. Produced from old vines and raised in neutral oak, this wine had six years in bottle. Moving more to the black fruit end of the spectrum this showed blackberries, raspberry and black cherry. This wine had a beautiful mouthfeel, something that only long ageing can create. Complex and delicious! Excellent
2018 Cal Pla Obac de L’Andeva.
2018 Cal Pla Obac de L’Andeva
Here the blend is 80% Garnacha and 20% Carignan. This is a beautiful wine showing deep red cherry and a flavour reminiscent of cherry liqueur. The tannins are medium+ and keep the wine focused and precise. The mouthfeel is gorgeous and seductive. The finish is long and evokes memories of black forest cake. Reminded us of a top Chateauneuf-du-Pape pulled from a deep cellar. Excellent+
2016 Cal Pla Planots
Equal parts of Garnacha and Carignan make up the blend which is then aged 35% in new barrels. This is a big and structured wine, the type that is an ideal pairing for roasted meats. Dark red in colour, the palate shows black cherry, blackberry and plum. There is a lovely savoury quality to the wine, enhanced by the inclusion of some stems during fermentation. Very sophisticated and capable of at least another decade of ageing. Excellent+
2010 Cal Pla Planots
Another treat from their cellar, at age 16 this was at peak drinking. A combination of power with elegance. This had terrific mouthfeel: round and full with enough tannin to set boundaries but soft and approachable. Dried herbs and hints of vanilla brough added complexity to the black cherry and plum flavours. Long finish with hints of spice. Excellent+
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Prat de la Riba, 1
43739 Porrera (Tarragona)
Spain
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