It’s been five and a half years since our last visit to Bodega Catena Zapata.

Marina Castillo (centre).

A trip that, in hindsight, marked the calm before a global storm. Just months after we wandered the high-altitude vineyards of Mendoza, the world came to a halt. That visit lingered in our memories not just for the extraordinary wines, but for the way Catena Zapata straddled the line between history and innovation.

Last week, we had the chance to reconnect with the Catena team, this time from the comfort of CinCin Ristorante in Vancouver. The occasion? A four-course dinner paired with some of Catena Zapata’s finest current releases, hosted by the irrepressible Marina Castillo, Export Manager for Canada and New York.

Marina, originally from Argentina and now based in British Columbia, brought with her not only deep knowledge of the wines but the kind of effusive charm that makes you feel like you’re catching up with an old friend.

The entire wine lineup showed beautifully.

Over plates of burrata, wild mushroom risotto, and perfectly grilled beef, we tasted our way through the winery’s latest portfolio with each glass telling its own story. But the evening was about more than pairings. It was a window into how much has changed since our last visit, and how Catena Zapata continues to push the boundaries of what’s possible in Argentine wine.

One of the most exciting developments is the opening of Angélica Cocina Maestra, Catena Zapata’s first on-site restaurant. Named after Laura Catena’s grandmother (Nicolás Catena’s mother and the source of the “Zapata” name), the restaurant opened in 2022 and just last month was awarded both a Michelin blue star for culinary excellence and a green star for sustainability.

Catena’s first on-site restaurant Angélica Cocina Maestra [source: Catena Zapata]

“Angélica is really special to us,” Marina shared before the dinner. “It’s located in a restored building near the entrance to the winery. We took parts of a 100-year-old underground cellar and incorporated them into the architecture. Some bricks are original; others are newly made using custom molds to match. It seats just 45 to 50 people and faces the winery pyramid. It’s intimate, it’s personal, and it’s our way of sharing our heritage with visitors.”

The Michelin recognition is yet another feather in the cap for a winery that has long emphasized not just exceptional wines, but immersive storytelling and hospitality.

Perhaps the most intriguing release since our last visit is Birth of Cabernet, Catena Zapata’s newest flagship wine.

The Birth of Cabernet label [source: Catena Zapata]

Launching with the 2021 vintage, the wine is a poetic tribute to the origins of Cabernet Sauvignon, a grape born from the unlikely crossing of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc.

The concept was sparked by Laura Catena’s research for her book Gold in the Vineyards and developed into a full narrative project with her sister Adrianna, a PhD historian at Oxford University. The wine’s elaborate label is steeped in symbolism: Cabernet Franc as a cunning fox styled as Cardinal Richelieu; Sauvignon Blanc as a siren; and their “offspring,” Cabernet Sauvignon, journeying to the iconic Catena pyramid.

“What’s amazing about this wine is how much thought went into every detail,” Marina explained. “It’s not just about what’s in the glass, although the wine is stunning. It’s also about honouring the past and the scientific and artistic history of this grape.”

One of the rows at La Pirámide.

The wine itself is a blend of primarily Cabernet Sauvignon from the high-altitude Angélica Sur and La Pirámide vineyards, with a touch of Cabernet Franc. Fermented in a mix of concrete, stainless steel, and oak, it spends up to two years in French barrels, aiming to strike a refined balance between elegance and power.

Having tasted Mendoza Cabernets during our 2019 visit, we can say with confidence that this grape, while often overshadowed by Malbec, may well be Argentina’s best-kept secret.

Marina also shared updates on the Adrianna Vineyard, widely considered Catena’s “grand cru.” New plantings include Semillon at 1,500 meters above sea level, a nod to both heritage and experimentation.

“We’ve been tracking temperature changes due to climate change,” she said.

The Mayan-inspired pyramid at Catena Zapata.

“At lower elevations, we’ve seen an increase, but at the higher altitudes like Adrianna, temperatures have actually gone down. It’s good news because we don’t need to go any higher for now.”

The 2023 accolade of World’s Best Vineyard by the World’s Best Vineyards organization also brought attention to the full Catena experience; not just the wines, but the immersive visits, hospitality, and education.

“It’s not just about what’s in the glass,” Marina said. “People are judging us based on the full experience from vineyard to table.”

Early in the growing season in Mendoza.

Indeed, with bookings filling up over a month in advance and a recently hosted International Terroir Conference, the first ever in South America, Catena is becoming a true epicentre for wine tourism and scholarship.

Marina also reflected candidly on the challenges brought on by the pandemic. “When the world shut down in March 2020, we were in the middle of harvest,” she recalled. “Catena was part of a group of producers in the region that lobbied the government to let us continue because every hour makes a difference during harvest. As a result, some of the 2020 wines may taste a bit more full-bodied than usual because of that.”

From 2020 to 2022, the winery was closed to the public, prompting a full rebuild of the hospitality team. “Laura asked me and a colleague to start fresh. We trained a new team in Buenos Aires and reopened in 2022. It was actually a blessing because starting together new meant everyone was on the same page from day one.”

The thoughtfully paired menu showcased the wines brilliantly.

The dinner at CinCin was a masterclass in pairing and an excellent showcase of Catena’s diverse lineup:

• A crisp, textural 2023 White Clay Semillon-Chenin welcomed guests with what was an elevated take on a historical blend once common in Argentina.
• The 2022 White Stones and White Bones Chardonnays dazzled alongside burrata and Chioggia beets, with the latter a 100-point wine (the first white from Argentina to receive that honour).
• Mushroom risotto paired beautifully with the 2022 Argentino Malbec and 2020 Adrianna Vineyard ‘River’ Malbec, a wonderful study in contrasts that were both profound.
• The main course, grilled flat iron steak, came with a rare vertical pour: 2007 and 2020 Nicolás Catena Zapata. The older vintage still held remarkable freshness while the 2020 showed a ton of promise with its layered complexity.(See the full wine tasting notes at end of article).

2007 Nicolas Catena Zapata.

The dinner may have taken place in Vancouver, but the spirit of Mendoza was unmistakably present. Catena Zapata is a winery that holds great respect for its past while it charges forward with fresh ideas from architectural tributes to new wines inspired by its history, to bold plantings that test the limits of altitude and climate.

“If you don’t visit Argentina,” Marina told us, “you don’t fully get it.” We couldn’t agree more. But until your next flight south, pour a glass of Catena and let the story unfold from your own table.

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Tasting Notes

2023 White Clay Semillon-Chenin

This is an unusual blend; in fact, it’s our first encounter with it. But it certainly work. Semillon is the base of the blend and 60% in this, its second vintage. Traditionally Sauvignon Blanc would be the blending partner. But Catena chose Chenin to bring structure to Semillons body and the combination creates just the right balance. Notes of citrus and grapefruit get added complexity from the mineral -infused finish. A bit of air brings out additional orchard fruit notes. This is juicy and refreshing; a great start to a tasting and would pair nicely with all sorts of shellfish or vegetable-based appetizers. Very Good+

2022 White Stones Chardonnay

2022 White Stones Chardonnay.

The rest of the wines were served in flights of two which is a great way to compare and contrast. The first flight were their two incomparable Chardonnays. Both wines come from their Adrianna Vineyard, which resides at an elevation of 5,000 feet in the Gualtallary district of the Uco Valley. Adrianna has poor soils and its extreme elevation creates big diurnal temperature swings which preserves acidity. The vines endure considerable stress due to the elevation and the extremely rocky soils; a stress that gives the grapes their complexity and character.  The two wines are sourced from different sections of the vineyard which showcases how slight differences in terroir can create very different expressions in the final wine.

Stones comes from a parcel of 27 rows within Adrianna and takes its name from the round white stones found scattered within the plot. This is stunning Chardonnay. Medium gold in the glass the wine has beautiful aromas of orchard fruits and floral notes that evoke memories of dried flowers. There is a definite mineral streak which creates and almost laser-like precision to the wine. The juicy acidity puts punctuation to the citrus notes that linger on the long finish. The minerality, the focus and the precision bring to mind Puligny Montrachet. Excellent+

2022 White Bones Chardonnay

2022 White Bones Chardonnay.

White Bones gets its name from the fossilized animal bones that are found in the soil in Block 1 of the Adrianna Vineyard. If Stones is Puligny, then to us Bones is Chassagne. The same crisp minerality, laser focus of bright acidity and complexity is present in this wine but with the addition of just a bit more heft. Somehow Bones is able to dial up the textural component without sacrificing any of the linearity. Definitely enough difference to justify the separate bottlings; they are both amazing wines. Extraordinary

2022 Catena Zapata Argentino Malbec

This is 100% Malbec coming from two estate vineyards: Nicasia Vineyard (20 years old) and Angelica Vineyard (90 years old).

2022 Argento Malbec.

The vines are cuttings from a Massale Selection of Angelica. Its deep purple colour foreshadows the depth of flavours about to be experienced. 10% to 30% whole clusters are used in the ferment and then the wine is transferred to French oak barrels of a combination of new, 2nd and 3rd fill, where it ages for 18 months. The result is a deeply concentrated wine displaying concentration and power but retaining the winery’s trademark balance. Flavours of plum and black cherry are delivered on a tannic frame that brings structure to the voluptuous body. There is a degree of hedonism in this wine that will appeal to lovers of a bold style. Complexity comes from earth and herbal notes. The finish goes on for 45 seconds. Extraordinary

2020 Nicolas Catena Zapata

2020 Nicolas Catena Zapata.

This is a blend of almost equal amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec with a pinch of Cabernet Franc. We would love to taste this wine blind in a line up of classified growth Bordeaux, as we think it would be difficult to pick it out. Classic notes of black currant, blackberry, earth and forest floor. The tannins are high (to be expected at this early age) but they are ripe and not at all harsh. This wine shares a lot in common with a top quality Pauillac and like those wines needs a bit more time and will no doubt continue to bring pleasure for another 2 decades or more. Excellent+

2007 Nicolas Catena Zapata

Wow, this wine was a real stunner! Though sharing many of the characteristics of the preceding wine, here age has softened the edges, added complexity and made this into one of those rare and highly memorable wine tasting experiences. Still nicely structured but there is a smoothness and an integration of the component parts into a harmonious whole present that is the dragon that serious wine tasters are constantly chasing. Complex, textured, perfectly balanced this was an incredible wine. Extraordinary

Bodega Catena Zapata

Cobos s/n – Luján de Cuyo (5509), Mendoza, Argentina

Latitude 33° 10′ 4.264″ S – Longitude 68° 54′ 14.522″ W

To book experiences: Contact – Bodega Catena Zapata