The historic Malbec vineyard at Cheval des Andes.

Malbec is that dark and delicious red wine that originally came from France but now is most closely associated with Argentina. Deep purple in colour, velvety in texture and plummy in profile, Malbec is capturing fans the world over for its Bordeaux-like characteristics without the big price tags.

Malbec is one of the original Bordeaux grape varieties, along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carménère. It also has considerable plantings in the Cahors region which resides 200 kilometers southwest of Bordeaux near the Spanish border. Cahors is thought to be the birthplace of Malbec.

Map of Cahors [source: Vignobles de Sud Ouest]

In Cahors, Malbec produces an inky, almost black wine that is often high in tannin. Frequently described as rustic, Cahors Malbec will show flavours of dark plum and tart currants along with secondary notes of herbs, minerals and savoury qualities.

Cahors is its own AOC or appellation, having gained that status in 1971. It makes just a single red wine that must be at least 70% Malbec. Blending partners are Merlot and Tanat. Roughly 15,000 acres are currently under vine, making up about 15% of the world’s Malbec total. In the region, Malbec is also referred to as “Cot” or “Auxerrois”.

St. Emilion

In Bordeaux, Malbec suffered a significant decline in the number of vines planted. Though it thrived in the 19th Century and was a significant grape on the Right Bank, especially in St. Emillion, it suffered badly when the phylloxera louse struck the region and destroyed so many vines in the 1870s.

After the devastating blight was finally brought to an end and vineyards were replanted with phylloxera-resistant rootstocks, Malbec did not regain its former prominence. Its decline was largely due to its heightened vulnerability to diseases like mildew and coloure, which made it a less reliable choice for growers. Additionally, Malbec’s tendency to produce sizable berries often resulted in wines with a diluted character, further diminishing its appeal among vintners seeking more concentrated flavors.

An example of severe frost in the vineyard in France.

In 1956 a brutal frost hit Bordeaux killing many vines. Malbec was found to be especially vulnerable. In the subsequent years as replanting took place, Malbec did not get replanted to nearly the same degree as the other varieties.

In Bordeaux today there are about 10,000 acres of Malbec under vine. Here Malbec is used as a blending partner for other Cabernet Sauvignon- or Merlot-based wines. It’s seldom vinified on its own as a monocepage or single-variety wine. In fact, Malbec usually forms the smallest part of the Bordeaux blend, under 10% and frequently under 5%. Like Cahors, Bordeaux Malbec has dark colour, high tannin and a plummy and floral flavour profile, but might be less austere.

Which leaves us with the star of the Malbec show: Argentina. Cuttings from Bordeaux vineyards were brought to Argentina in the 1880s by a man named Michel Pouget. They were planted at high elevations, especially around the city of Mendoza. In this warm, dry climate, Malbec has thrived and has put Argentinian wine on the map.

Estate vineyard at Catena Zapata.

While phylloxera exists in Argentina, it has caused relatively little damage to their vineyards, and this has allowed the phylloxera-susceptible Malbec to survive. Dry, sunny climates at high elevations means less disease pressure from mildew which is another benefit for Malbec in Argentina.

Argentina is home to 76,000 acres of Malbec vines, with Mendoza firmly established as the leading region in terms of both quantity and quality. About 75% of Argentina’s Malbec is cultivated in Mendoza, where sub-regions such as Luján de Cuyo, Uco Valley, and Maipú have earned acclaim for producing exceptional wines that showcase the varietal’s best expressions.

The wine lineup at Achaval Ferrer.

Within the Uco Valley is the Gualtallary region, a personal favourite of ours. But other parts of this huge country are also producing Malbec. This includes Salta, another high-altitude region that includes highly regarded Calchaqui Valley. North of Mendoza is San Juan, producing similarly intense Malbecs. In Argentina’s south is Patagonia, possessing a cooler climate and making Malbecs of great finesse and elegance.

Early in the growing season in Mendoza.

In terms of style, Argentinian Malbec is decidedly different than those from France, particularly Cahors. Argentinian Malbec is fruit forward and generally quite approachable. The adjectives “rustic” and “austere” used earlier to describe French Malbec have no place describing Argentinian Malbec. The dominant fruit component is the signature “plumminess” that is common to all Malbec wines and the dark colour is found in Argentina as well.

But when tasting a Malbec from Argentina, you will not pick up the astringent and often harsh tannic profile of a Cahors. Instead, you will find enough tannins to create structure, but tannins that are ripe and not harsh or scratchy. You will also notice a greater depth of fruit and usually more body. Argentinian Malbec will show some savoury aspects but will lead with the fruit. “Rich” is an adjective that comes to mind when tasting Malbec from Argentina but would not be evoked when tasting Cahors.

Malbec and empanadas at Bodega Andeluna.

Malbec from Argentina spans the quality spectrum generally is good value at each level. As you work up the quality scale, that value becomes more noticeable. Top quality Argentina Malbec that receives scores of 95 and higher from the big wine publications sells for $50 to $200 compared to similar wines from Bordeau that can sell from $200 to $1500.

We have tasted numerous Malbecs from Argentina. Some of our favourite producers from that country are: Andeluna Cellars; Achaval Ferrer; Zuccardi; Catena Zapata and Cheval des Andes.

Malbec is produced elsewhere in the world, and often with good results.

The stunning vineyard view at Altair in Chile.

Argentina’s neighbour, Chile has about 6000 acres planted but sits somewhat in the shadow of Argentina’s reputation with the grape. (Not dissimilar to Sonoma, which makes very good Cabernet Sauvignon but is overshadowed by the reputation of what comes from its neighbour, Napa.) California is beginning to turn out good Malbec as is Washington State.

Malbec is definitely on the rise and has become a serious wine. This has not escaped the notice of some of the top wineries in the world who have partnered with local winemakers in Argentina to make world class wine using this grape.

Barrel tasting at Catena Zapata.

Chateau Lafite Rothschild has partnered with Argentinian superstar Catena Zapata to make Caro (name taken from first 2 letters of each winery), a Malbec-dominant blend receiving high praise. The owners of Léoville Poyferré, the famed second growth of St. Julian have set up a winery in Mendoza to make wine from Malbec and other varieties called Cuvelier de Los Andes.

Famous oenologist Michel Rolland has set up the Clos de Los Siete project making excellent Malbec at very fair prices.

The cellar at Cheval des Andes.

But easily our favourite of these collaborations is the remarkable wine being made at Cheval des Andes, a joint venture between Bordeaux’s famous Cheval Blanc and Argentina’s Terazzas de los Andes. Referred to as the “Grand Cru of the Andes” this is an absolutely stunning blend of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. We tasted it at their beautiful winery and it was the wine of our trip to Argentina.

Malbec’s recognition has been cemented by it having its own day of celebration. International Malbec Day, also known as Malbec World Day, is celebrated annually on April 17. This date commemorates the day in 1853 when Argentine President Domingo Faustino Sarmiento officially tasked Michel Aimé Pouget, a French agronomist, with bringing new grape varieties to Argentina, including Malbec. Over time, Malbec flourished in Argentina’s diverse terroirs, becoming the country’s signature grape and a global symbol of its wine industry. A great day to open a bottle of Malbec!