1997 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve (Napa, CA)
Napa Valley’s Beringer Vineyards should need no introduction: it is one of the oldest and most iconic wineries in the Valley, in fact in all of California.
Brothers Jacob and Frederic Beringer left Germany for America in 1868 and finally settled in California after learning that rocky hillsides and fertile valley floor soils resembled those of vineyards back home. They were able to purchase 215 acres of land in 1875 and start one of Napa Valley’s first wineries.
Over the years Beringer grew and prospered. But 101 years after its founding, in 1976, two developments occurred that would firmly put Beringer on fine wine map: Ed Sbargia was hired as assistant winemaker to Myron Nightengale and the very first Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve wine was created. Dark, tannic and unusually age-worthy, that wine went on to win a gold medal as best Cabernet Sauvignon at the 1981 Orange County Fair. It was to become a first in a long list of accolades that were ultimately bestowed upon various vintages of Private Reserves, including the 1986 becoming Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year.
Soon after, Sbragia took over the reins as head winemaker at Beringer, and held that role until 2008 when he passed the mantle on to his assistant Laurie Hook. Sbragia made a number of spectacular Private Reserves while at Beringer, drawing on fruit from eight different Estate-owned single vineyards. These include the now very famous Chabot Vineyard on the Valley floor as well vineyards on Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain and Mount Veeder. Each of the eight vineyards does a single vineyard release of their own, usually only putting out 200 – 250 cases from each. The majority of the production goes to the Private Reserve where 60 to 80 different lots are selected and vinified separately and then finally blended after extensive tasting. Each vintage will have anywhere from 90% – 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, though some Cabernet Franc and some Merlot may be blended in. Oak treatment is always 100% new French, with Seguin-Moreau and Taransaud being the coopers of choice, and time in barrel is usually 20 months.
The resulting wine shows the power and structure of the Mountain fruit that no doubt accounts for its long life in the cellar. Yet the blending of so many lots achieves a balance that keeps the wine from being heavy. Alcohol typically ranges from 13.5% – 14.5%.
The 1997 (13.9% alcohol) reveals a medium dark red that fades towards the rim. A very expressive nose of cherry, blackberry, menthol, cigar box and earth keeps us coming back to the glass for another view of its evolution. The body, now at age 17, has mellowed back to medium, though we are sure it would have been quite full in its youth. Black cherry and currant dominates the palate that has a rich yet satiny mouthfeel that only ageing can deliver. Elegance trumps power in this fully mature wine. Medium acidity helps add to a long and lively finish. Not showing any signs of fatigue, this wine is at peak but could go at least 5 years longer and still deliver much pleasure.
Excellent
(2009 vintage available at Marquis (www.marquis-wines.com) and BCLD (www.bcliquorstores.com ) for $150; 1992 vintage available at Marquis for $350).
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