Zinfandel is a fascinating grape with a long history, but origins that were only recently unraveled.
Zinfandel grapes [source: intovino.com]
Made in the right hands it produces big wines with fruity and spicy characteristics that can be drunk young and that won’t break the bank.
For a long time, Zinfandel was thought of as America’s grape. It is the fifth most planted grape in the USA and loves the hot climates of Sonoma and Napa. However, the myth that Zinfandel has its origins in American soils was dispelled in the 1990s.
Ampelographers, those wonderful scientists who have made a life of studying grapes, wines and their various characteristics, discovered striking similarities between Zinfandel and an Italian variety called Primitivo, grown in Southern Italy’s Puglia district.
Vines at Sonoma’s St. Francis Winery.
Given that many of California’s early winemakers hailed from Italy, bringing vine cuttings with them to the New World, it was widely believed that Zinfandel was simply Primitivo under a different name.
Further study led to Croatia, where another grape known as Plavac Mali was thought to be original ancestor to Zinfandel and Primitivo. It wasn’t until the mid-1990s, with the advent of DNA profiling, that the mystery was solved. Plavac Mali was revealed to be a cross between Zinfandel and other indigenous Croatian varieties, while the true genetic match was traced to an obscure Croatian grape known as Pribidrag—finally confirming Zinfandel’s European roots.
2018 Grgić Plavac Mali
While some Croatian Pridibag is made into wine, the vast majority of this grape is vinified as either Primitivo (11,000 Ha grown in Italy) or Zinfandel (19,000 Ha grown in California).
Though Primitivo and Zinfandel share the same genetic DNA, where and how they are grown results in distinctly different wines. While Zinfandel is vinified into both red wine and rosé wine, Primitivo is traditionally vinified exclusively as a red wine.
Bob Trinchero [Source: Napa Valley Register]
The rosé version, known as “White Zinfandel” became a California phenomenon after it was “accidentally” made by Bob Trinchero of Sutter Home Winery in Sonoma in 1975. Trinchero was making a red Zinfandel and was not very happy with colour of a particular batch. Part way through the maceration he drew off some of the wine from the tank leaving a lower juice to skins ratio to concentrate the colour (wine gets it colour from contact with the skins). He ended up bleeding off a fair amount of wine which had a lovely pink colour and thought it tasted pretty good. He bottled it and sold it at a lower price point as White Zinfandel. The rest was history and now the pink hued White Zinfandel sells six times as much as red Zinfandel, still at low price points, designed for quaffing as opposed to serious tasting.
Italy vs California Zinfandel Showdown! – YouTube
Zinfandel and Primitivo make a full bodied, higher alcohol wine showing primary fruit flavours of blackberry, brambleberry, and black cherry. The spicy notes often play a supporting but fairly significant role and add complexity. Think of cracked pepper, licorice, cedar and leather.
Oak barrels are commonly used for Zinfandel.
When oak barrels are used, as is often the case with premium offerings, barrel notes of vanilla and toasty notes can be found. To us, the high alcohol in the wines that results from the high sugar content in the grapes, accounts for a significant part of the wine’s signature. It is not uncommon for these wines to have alcohol levels of 15% to 17%.
The high alcohol content in Zinfandel is evident in the thick, pronounced legs—or ‘tears’—that run down the side of the glass as well as the warming sensation when the wine is swallowed. It gives these wines a full body and sometimes the ripeness of the fruit can give a sweet sensation even if the wine has been fermented fully dry.
A Malbec vineyard at Viu Manent in Argentina.
To us, Zinfandel, when well made, shares notable similarities with both Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. The blackberry and alcohol combine to evoke a flavour of cassis, a classic descriptor of Bordeaux red wines. Like the Argentine Malbec, Zinfandel is intensely fruit forward and delivers a lush, mouth-filling experience. The spicier Zinfandels, particularly those with pronounced black pepper notes, often remind us of Syrah.
Growing Zinfandel in California is trickier than growing Primitivo in Italy. This is likely because the grape has been transplanted to a different terroir which may not be ideal growing conditions.
Jonathan Lachs explaining the ‘wagon wheel’ Zinfandel vines at Cedarville in El Dorado California.
Zinfandel is generally an early ripening grape. In California, bunches often have both fully ripe grapes and underripe grapes on them at harvest time.
Winemakers refer to this phenomenon as “chicks and hens”. Sorting the underripe grapes out of the final selection is a time-consuming and an expensive process. Leaving the underripe grapes in the batch can create herbaceous and stemmy flavours in the resulting wine. To avoid that, winemakers will often pick a little later, giving the “chicks” a bit more hang time to ripen. This results in making wines with higher alcohol. It also can interject some overripe notes often expressed as raisin or fig flavours.
Zinfandel can be made as both a 100% varietal wine and can be the dominant part of a blend. Successful blending partners are found in Carignan, Petite Syrah, Mourvèdre and Syrah.
Zinfandel: love it or debate it—either way, your glass, your choice.
Zinfandel is wine that sparks debate among various drinkers. Critics argue that it’s too high in alcohol, too big, overly ripe and not a serious wine. Fans, however, appreciate its full body, lush dark fruit profile and its smooth, approachable tannins that make it enjoyable even in its youth.
Count us among the fans. Zinfandel shines on restaurant wine lists where younger wines often dominate as they’re crafted for early drinking. It also offers excellent value, typically priced considerably lower than Napa Cabernet, Rhône Syrah, or Bordeaux. Its full body makes it an ideal pairing for red meat and its spicy side works really well with barbeque sauces or charred flavours.
Ridge Vineyards – one of the top Zinfandel producers in California.
Primitivo wines from Italy can be somewhat elusive in North America, but two widely available and highly recommended options are Gran Appasso and Salentino. As for Zinfandel, there’s no shortage—California offers an abundance of excellent choices including Ridge, St. Francis, T-Vine, Dry Creek, Turley, Grgich Hills, Enkidu, Kenwood, Seghesio, and Rosenblum.
Zinfandel’s journey—from its obscure Croatian origins to its rise as a California icon—speaks to the dynamic interplay of history, terroir, and winemaking. Whether enjoyed as a bold, fruit-forward red or a refreshing rosé, it remains one of the most versatile and expressive varieties in the world of wine. While its high alcohol and ripeness may not appeal to everyone, its exuberant character, rich flavors, and exceptional value make it a compelling choice for those who appreciate a robust, food-friendly wine. For lovers of big, approachable reds with a sense of place, Zinfandel continues to prove why it has earned its place in the pantheon of great wines.
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