Suzor Wines: Where Avant-Garde Meets the Ancestral Vine

Posted on Oct 16, 2024


Greg McLellan.

In Oregon’s northern Willamette Valley, where the climate is often compared to that of Burgundy, a story of heritage, passion, and playful experimentation unfolds at Suzor Wines. Here, winemaker and proprietor Greg McLellan has crafted a winery that is as much about honoring his past as it is about embracing the future.

Through a blend of traditional winemaking techniques and a spirit of innovation, Greg, along with his wife Melissa Rondeau, has created a unique space in the Oregon wine scene, one that invites both connoisseurs and casual sippers to experience the essence of the land, the grapes, and the history that shaped them.

Playful labels with personal connection.

The name “Suzor” carries with it a deep personal connection for Greg. It’s the maiden name of his grandmother, a woman whose influence reaches far beyond the family tree. “She was the reason I got to go to France as a kid, the reason I was exposed to wine,” Greg reminisces.

This early exposure to French wine culture, coupled with fond memories of summers spent at his grandparents’ home in the Loire Valley, set the stage for what would become a lifelong passion.

Greg’s journey into winemaking wasn’t a straight path, but rather a series of fortunate encounters and bold decisions that led him from Northern California to New Zealand, and ultimately to Burgundy, the mecca of Pinot Noir. Growing up with a French mother and a Francophile father, Greg was no stranger to the world of wine.

Barrel tasting with Greg.

But it wasn’t until he landed a job as an intern at Ponzi Vineyards that he truly found his calling. Under the mentorship of Luisa Ponzi, she believed he had a promising future in wine and encouraged him to go work with her husband Eric Hamacher to get experience at another winery.

After 3 years working with Eric, they encouraged him again to work elsewhere but outside of Oregon. It was with Luisa and Eric he learned the fundamental truth of winemaking: “Great wine comes from great grapes.” This philosophy, centered on gentle handling and respect for the growing season, became the cornerstone of his winemaking approach.

“I got really lucky because I worked with 2 people who took an interest and a care in me. They told me ‘you’re really good at this so go away, really away, for more experience.”

Eager to expand his horizons, Greg set off for New Zealand and later France, where he pursued a postgraduate program in Viticulture and Enology in Beaune, Burgundy. These experiences solidified his understanding of Pinot Noir and deepened his appreciation for the varied interpretations of the grape.

When he returned to Oregon, he joined the Trisaetum team as co-winemaker before eventually deciding to strike out on his own. In the old Ponzi winery space, where his journey had begun, Suzor Wines was born.

The name Suzor honours his grandmother.

In 2011, Greg presented his grandmother with the first bottle bearing the Suzor label. “I made this and I named it ‘Suzor,’” he recalls telling her, expecting a grand reaction. Instead, she simply replied, “Yeah, it’s okay, of course.” For Greg, this understated response was quintessentially French, a subtle nod of approval that meant the world.

Suzor Wines is driven by simple yet profound goals: to think in shape and texture, practice low intervention winemaking, and commit to the sustainability of the land. Greg’s winemaking philosophy is about capturing a sense of place, producing wines that are evocative, layered, and vibrant. “We work with quality-conscious growers that are committed to sustainability,” he explains. The vineyards he sources from eschew synthetic herbicides and pesticides, ensuring that the fruit reflects the purity of the land from which it comes.

Grapes at Menefee close to harvest.

The fruit itself is key to Suzor’s success. Sourcing from older vineyard sites at higher elevations (around 700 feet), Greg values acidity for the freshness and brightness it brings to the wine. This careful selection of vineyard sites allows for a longer, more even ripening season, which in turn leads to wines that age gracefully.

His Pinot Noir, particularly the flagship “The Tower,” draws fruit from Menefee, Lazy River, and Bieze vineyards. “The Tower” is a blend that showcases the nuances of each vintage, balancing acidity, tannin, and fruit to create a harmonious expression of the land.

Greg’s approach to Chardonnay is equally meticulous. Sourced from small allocations at Left Coast Vineyard and Marin Vineyard, the Chardonnay is a blend of three clones, which adds complexity to the wine. Fermented naturally in 25% new French barriques and aged for 11 months, the Chardonnay is rich in mouthfeel with a pronounced minerality, a testament to Greg’s commitment to expressing the unique character of each vineyard site.

While Suzor Wines is deeply rooted in tradition and respect for the land, there is also a playful side to Greg’s winemaking.

A combination of old & new.

This is perhaps best exemplified by his decision to break away from the strict Burgundian influence that initially guided his career. Melissa, his wife, played a significant role in this evolution. “She pushed me out of my very Burgundy-influenced direction and inspired me to have a lot more fun with the grapes here,” Greg notes. This shift in perspective led to the creation of wines that defy expectations, such as an Aligoté-Chardonnay blend and a Pinot Noir-Gamay Noir cuvée. These wines reflect not just a mastery of technique, but also a willingness to experiment and have fun.

The names of the wines themselves carry personal significance. “The Tower,” for instance, is named after the 14th-century lookout tower that stood in his grandparents’ backyard in the Loire Valley.

Menefee Vineyard.

As a child, Greg would climb the tower every summer, marveling at the view of the valley below. “It was their storage space, but to me, it was iconic,” he says. Similarly, “Sunflower,” the Chardonnay Greg first started making, is a nod to the breathtaking fields of sunflowers that surrounded his grandparents’ home.

The entire Suzor Wines project is an homage to his grandparents, a way of saying thank you for the memories and the inspiration they provided.

Greg McLellan.

As Suzor Wines continues to grow, Greg remains focused on his original vision: to create a wines where every bottle tells a story of place, heritage, and joy. Speaking with Greg, it’s clear that he’s not just serious about his wines—he’s having a lot of fun making them. His warmth, energy, and talent shine through in every bottle, making Suzor Wines a must-visit for anyone exploring the Willamette Valley.

For Greg, the journey is far from over.

“I’m so grateful I went abroad when I did because as soon as you start a business in wine, you don’t get to travel and do harvests elsewhere,” he reflects. But with Suzor Wines firmly established, Greg is now more focused than ever on the adventure at hand: crafting wines that are as vibrant and layered as the memories that inspired them. And in every sip, you can taste the passion, the history, and yes, the fun that goes into making Suzor Wines truly special.

 

Suzor Wines

Winery Lane Collective

14665 SW Winery Lane

Beaverton, OR 97132

T: (503) 593-4999

*Visits by Appointment Only

6 Comments

  1. martindredmond@gmail.com'

    What a fascinating journey for Greg, and I’m loving the Ponzi full circle situation. It’s stories like this that make wine so fascinating to me!

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    • Every time we think we’ve seen or heard it all, wonderful stories like these pop up!

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  2. Kathy.g.molnar@gmail.com'

    What an interesting background leading to winemaking – such a wonderful tribute to his grandmother.

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    • Agreed…and the story of her reaction is so French!

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  3. Robin@42aspens.com'

    What a lively story. His playful approach to the newer wines and the labels stands out, and the genuine nod to his family history, so heartfelt, comes through in your story and videos!

    Post a Reply
    • Thank you! we’re so glad that came across because he truly was a genuine and fun interview.

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