There’s no question that the Okanagan wine industry has faced some tough years of late.
Winemaker Evan Saunders.
Beginning with the onset of COVID-19 in early 2020, the region has weathered a heat dome and forest fires in 2021, a major cold snap in late 2022, and now an even harsher cold event to start 2024. For Blasted Church winemaker Evan Saunders, it certainly feels like the Valley is being put to the test, but if anyone is up for the challenge, it’s him.
Evan became the head winemaker at Blasted Church in 2017 after working there for 4 years, following several years as a cellar hand at Osoyoos Larose in the Okanagan, along with working a harvest at Kosta Browne in Sonoma Valley, California. Throughout our conversations with people at the winery and in the industry, it is clear that Evan is highly regarded, with many expressing enthusiasm for the direction he is taking the wines at Blasted Church.
That direction is driven by a desire to provide more focus to each individual wine given the relatively large portfolio of offerings.
The iconic view at Blasted Church Vineyards.
“On the white side of things, [we’re] always looking for earlier pick, quite high acid, picking things earlier than a lot of people. Trying to keep that alcohol down while still getting that really clean fruit profile…integrating a little more neutral barrel fermentation to build texture, build that profile that you would get if you hung [the fruit] a little bit longer but then the alcohol goes up…It’s not a ‘one size fits all’ so ideally we’re tailoring everything from the vineyard through into the cellar how we’re working so we’re trying to give every wine a personality and a continuity from vintage to vintage.”
Tasting with Evan in the barrel room.
While the philosophy is the same with the reds, the approach is expectedly different, “…we push a bit in the opposite direction, a little longer hang time for some of the reds…bumping up the new oak percentage although it’s primarily all French, lower toast so you’re not looking for that oak impact, you’re just looking for the mouthfeel and that kind of texture you get from a new barrel.”
Moving forward from the mid-January cold event, Blasted Church is actively exploring its options. As Evan tells us, last year’s smaller vintage due to the late-December cold event means they can’t afford to miss another entire vintage because of the recent January cold snap. While some wineries may have sufficient inventory to navigate through, the full impact of this year’s cold event won’t be felt in the marketplace until 2025 for white wines and 2026 for red wines. For now, most wineries have wine in inventory, but strategic planning remains crucial for the future.
A glass of Blasted Church’s outstanding Merlot paired with an equal view.
To avoid supply issues over the next few years, several wineries are looking to secure a grape supply for 2024 from Washington State, Ontario, and Oregon. For Evan, the Washington State option makes the most sense, “Everyone will have to determine what is best for them. But his would give us a way to keep our staff employed, keep our business viable, and hopefully provide us with enough time to see our vineyards return to health and production in 2025 and 2026.
“The current regulations allow us to do this with some changes to licensing and some related changes to pay structures, which make this a tricky path forward financially. We are hoping there may be some short-term changes that make it a more viable option, but for the time being we don’t know what changes, if any, are forthcoming [yet].”
Looking ahead in the face of a changing climate, the industry is collectively open to exploring every available option.
Leading with quality.
This includes considering cold-hardy hybrid grape varieties, using geotextiles to protect against cold damage, employing shade canopies to shield from sun and heat, burying grapevines in winter to mitigate cold impact, and numerous other innovative ideas.
The wine that is a standout for us in the Blasted Church portfolio is his Merlot. Fortunately, that is one of the varieties that is hardier than most. “I think merlot for the south Okanagan…is one of the best vintage in and vintage out; it ripens well even in years where we have a cooler vintage or maybe get an early frost…whatever vintage it is, Merlot is always going to show quite well. It’s just a grape that responds to all the different sites in the valley. Cab Franc is up there as well though a little trickier in the vineyard, a little trickier in the cellar to get quite right, but one that doesn’t mind the cold…I think it’s going to be one [of the grapes] people look to even more going forward.”
Despite the numerous challenges faced in recent years, Evan attributes much of the industry’s resilience to the steadfast support of the local market.
The Okanagan’s resiliency continues.
Support he considered crucial during unprecedented times, that provided a lifeline for the industry at its lowest point.
“The wine industry is made up of an incredibly resilient group of people, none of us got into this industry with the idea that it was going to be easy. While it’s certainly been demanding, my hope is that we are all able to continue doing what we love to do, which is growing grapes, making wine, and sharing that with consumers.”
Having recently celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2022 and with Evan’s leadership in the vineyards and the cellar, Blasted Church is not only poised to weather whatever challenges lie ahead but also to elevate its commitment to producing exceptional quality wines.
Tasting Notes
2016 Blasted Church OMFG Sparkling Wine
2016 OMFG Sparkling Wine.
This is a really great sparkling wine! It has that great combination of rounded texture matched by bracing acidity. Made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc harvested from the Skaha Bench, this combines flavours of lime zest with green apple, mineral and hints of almond. Hints of warm bread speak to the ageing on lees. Hand riddled, hand disgorged, this was painstakingly made in the methode traditionale, the same method used in Champagne. Very refreshing, very focused. Excellent (CAD$50)
2019 Blasted Church Merlot
2019 Blasted Church Merlot
We can’t believe that in some circles Merlot still gets a bad rap as a hangover from the movie sideways. Merlot in the right hands–and Evan at Blasted Church certainly has those right hands–is a terrific wine. Deep red/purple in colour, this wine has a beautiful bouquet of plum and blackberry with a wonderful floral tint as well. Those berry components follow on to the palate where they are joined by brown spices (think clove and nutmeg) that add warmth to the picture. Firm tannins are ripe and give plenty of structure. This wine has many good years in front of it. The texture is round and approachable; a velvet robe of dark berry goodness envelopes your palate. Dark chocolate persists on the long finish. A great Merlot at a great price! Excellent (CAD$35)
A great place to enjoy a glass with a view.
378 Parsons Road
Okanagan Falls, BC
Canada V0H 1R5
T: (250) 497-1125
H: 11am-5pm Daily
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