Our first trip to Priorat was everything we’d imagined and more: dramatic landscapes, unforgettable wines, and some of the warmest hospitality we’ve experienced anywhere in the wine world.
This corner of Spain may be globally revered by wine lovers, but it still feels wonderfully untouched and deeply authentic. Here’s a look at the people, places, and moments that made Priorat such a memorable experience for us including stops at Celler Gritelles, Clos Figueras, and Cal Pla.
Dr. Xavier Estivill was our first stop on what would be a single, tightly packed day in Priorat. In hindsight, there was no better place to begin.
Dr. Xavier Estivill.
We met him in one of his vineyards above Cornudella de Montsant, where he quickly set the tone, walking us through the site’s soils, elevation, and exposure in a way that brought immediate clarity to the landscape. It was a perspective that stayed with us, shaping how we understood everything that followed.
That introduction unfolded into a deeper discussion of the region’s history and geology, delivered with a precision that reflects his scientific background. It continued later at his winery, Celler Gritelles, where tasting through his wines gave concrete form to what he had outlined in the vineyard.
We recently made our first visit to Priorat. Seeing it firsthand, there’s no gradual introduction to its scale.
Old vines flanked by terraced vineyards.
Towering terraced hillsides rise into view, etched with ancient vines, the full scale registering all at once.
Jagged ridgelines, stacked terraces, and sun-drenched slate soils define the landscape, where gnarled old vines cling improbably to slopes so steep they still require the steady footing of mules.
Set inland from the Mediterranean, Priorat is surrounded by mountains that form a natural amphitheatre of vineyards. Its dynamic topography is marked by vineyards carved into rock, punctuated by olive groves and hazelnut trees.
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