Winemaker Seth Jex [Credit: Fort Berens]
For any winery, succession is one of the most delicate moments in its evolution. Consumers may focus on the name on the label, but behind every bottle are countless decisions shaped by the people guiding the vineyard and cellar. When a respected winemaker departs, uncertainty can often follow.
At Fort Berens Estate Winery, however, the transition from Alex Nel to Seth Jex feels less like a changing of the guard and more like the continuation of a carefully plotted journey.
After five years at the Lillooet winery, Nel is returning home to South Africa, leaving behind a remarkable legacy. During his tenure, Fort Berens solidified its reputation as one of British Columbia’s most compelling producers, earning acclaim for wines defined by purity, balance, site expression, and a growing confidence in the unique character of Lillooet.
Winemaker Alex Nel.
Yet perhaps one of Nel’s most important contributions will prove to be the person who succeeds him.
For the past five years, Jex has worked alongside Nel as assistant winemaker, immersed not only in the cellar but also in the vineyards that define Fort Berens’ identity. A graduate of Brock University’s Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute (CCOVI), Jex brings experience from wineries across BC, Ontario, Washington State, South Africa, and New Zealand. More importantly, he arrives in the role with something that cannot be taught overnight: an intimate understanding of Fort Berens itself.
“The simplest answer is don’t fix what isn’t broken,” Jex says when asked about stepping into leadership. That philosophy reflects both humility and confidence. It also mirrors the lessons learned from Nel. “One of the biggest lessons I’ve taken from Alex is the importance of knowing when to step in as a winemaker and when to let the vineyard speak for itself,” he explains.
The picturesque estate vineyard at Fort Berens.
Those words feel particularly fitting in Lillooet, a region that continues to carve out a distinct identity within BC wine. Often overshadowed by the Okanagan and Similkameen, Lillooet remains something of a frontier appellation. Yet Jex believes that is precisely what makes it exciting.
“We are one of only a handful of wineries in the world with the opportunity to help shape and define a newly recognized appellation,” he says.
Veraison in the vineyard at Fort Berens.
His enthusiasm for the region is obvious. Raised in Smithers, BC, Jex was drawn to the close-knit community that surrounds the winery. But it’s the mix of climate, soils, elevation, and resilience that continues to fascinate him.
For those still unfamiliar with Lillooet, he points to the region’s long sunny days, hot temperatures, cool nights, low disease pressure, and mineral-rich soils. It’s a combination that has allowed Fort Berens to excel not only with aromatic whites but increasingly with Bordeaux varieties, particularly Cabernet Franc.
“Cabernet Franc from our estate Red Rock Vineyard has year-over-year been our best fruit and best wine,” says Jex, referencing a site that has produced some of the winery’s most decorated bottlings.
2024 Fort Berens ‘Here and There’ Rosé.
If there was a defining moment that prepared him for this new role, it arrived during the devastating 2024 vintage. Following the severe winter freeze that crippled vineyards across much of the province, Fort Berens faced difficult choices.
Rather than abandon its customers or compromise quality, the winery launched its innovative “Here and There” project, sourcing fruit from Washington State while maintaining complete control over production. Jex led the initiative and spent nearly three months in Washington overseeing vineyard selection, harvest decisions, fermentation, and logistics. The project not only helped sustain the winery through one of BC’s most challenging growing seasons, it also provided a real-world proving ground for the responsibilities of a head winemaker.
The 2025 White and Rosé new releases.
“The key lesson was maintaining the same standards and sense of ownership regardless of where the fruit comes from,” he says. That hands-on leadership, combined with years of apprenticeship under Nel, makes this transition feel unusually seamless.
Consumers are already seeing evidence of that continuity in the glass. Fort Berens’ newly released 2025 white and rosé wines represent a collaborative effort between Nel and Jex, with the two working side-by-side through the winemaking process. They offer both a final chapter in Nel’s tenure and a preview of the philosophy Jex intends to carry forward: bright fruit, balance, precision, and a clear sense of place.
Newly planted Chardonnay in 2025.
At the same time, there are subtle hints of where the winery may evolve. Jex is enthusiastic about expanding wine club exclusives, growing the winery’s wild fermentation program, exploring minimally filtered reds, and preparing for the eventual release of a traditional method Blanc de Noir sparkling wine. He’s also particularly excited about unlocking the potential of Fort Berens’ Pinot Noir program.
None of these ambitions feel revolutionary, and that is precisely the point. Great succession planning rarely announces itself with dramatic change. Instead, it preserves what has made a winery successful while allowing fresh perspectives to gradually emerge.
Uniquely suited to lead Fort Berens into the next chapter [source: Fort Berens].
In Jex, Fort Berens has found someone who understands that balance. For him, winemaking is only one leg of a relay race. One that also depends on vineyard crews, hospitality teams, sales staff, and ultimately, the customers who enjoy the finished wine. “I don’t see collaboration as simply beneficial to great winemaking—I think it’s fundamental to it.”
That philosophy is reflected in the way he approaches his work, with humility, curiosity, and a genuine respect for the people behind every bottle. Those qualities become apparent almost immediately in conversation. Warm, thoughtful, and deeply invested in both the winery and the region, Jex seems uniquely suited to lead Fort Berens into its next chapter.
For Fort Berens, the future doesn’t begin with a sharp turn in a new direction. It begins with a steady hand already on the wheel. And for a winery that has spent years building momentum in one of BC’s most exciting wine regions, that appears to be the best possible outcome.
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Tasting Notes
2025 Fort Berens Rosé
2025 Fort Berens Rosé.
Orange-pink in colour and made from estate grown Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. On the nose we get apple skins, hints of strawberry and a touch of wet stone. The body is medium, acidity is medium+ giving the wine a nice balance that shows how good this would be at the dinner table. Flavours of red apple, cherries and a lovely mineral streak. There is also a slight hint of cracked pepper on its long finish. This is a serious rosé. The balance, flavour complexity, and presence all show more than a summer sipper. Though we found it lovely on its own, we imagine how good this would be with ceviche or a seafood salad. Excellent
2025 Fort Berens Pinot Gris
2025 Fort Berens Pinot Gris.
Alto Adige meets Alsace? This delightful wine combines the best features of each of those regions: the searing acidity of a Northern Italy Pinot Grigio and the body and texture of Alsace. Medium gold in colour, with melon and orchard fruit on the nose. The medium body and high acidity work well together with the acidity making it refreshing, while the texture provides body making it a great accompaniment to the table. We get flavours of melon, peach, ripe apple and other orchard fruit with a nice streak of minerality on the long finish. This wine will earn many fans for its versatility and attractive price point. Very Good+
2025 Fort Berens Grüner Veltliner
2025 Fort Berens Grüner Veltliner.
This is a terrific expression of Austria’s best known grape. True to the variety, the Fort Berens’ Small Lot Grüner balances high acidity with medium+ body to create a balanced and textured wine. We get notes of melon, kiwi fruit, citrus and minerality in its intense flavour profile. The texture is a showcase of stark contrasts: bracingly high acidity alongside ample body. This makes the wine refreshing yet a wonderful partner for both cooked and raw fish at the dinner table. A lovely mineral streak inhabits the long finish. VG/Excellent
2025 Fort Berens Chardonnay
2025 Fort Berens Chardonnay.
Pale gold colour with a slight green tint. The nose shows melon and green apple with hints of wet stone. On the palate there is high acidity but this is balanced by medium body and the contrast creates an overall pleasing mouthfeel. Flavours of melon, grapefruit, lemon lime and a touch of almond. There’s a nice mineral streak that comes through on the long finish. Raised with only a touch of oak this will appeal to the modern palate in particular. Very Good+
2025 Fort Berens Riesling
2025 Fort Berens Riesling.
Pale gold in colour with green apple and a touch of citrus on the nose. No petrol scents (a good thing, in our books). Flavours of green apple, lime juice, and a hint of apricot. Medium body with high acid, but not at all tart.
A textured mouthfeel that shows the kind of body and crisp backbone that will marry well with spicy Asian cuisine as well as being a very refreshing aperitif. They chose to leave a small bit of residual sugar and we think this was a good choice–it adds texture without adding flavour and provides a good counterpoint to the high acidity. Very true to the Riesling varietal. VG/Excellent
2025 Fort Berens Late Harvest Riesling
On the nose we get apple, lime and a touch of honey. Flavours of baked apples with baking spices, apricot jam and golden honey. Just the right degree of sweetness, it’s rich without being cloying. A great way to finish off any meal. Very Good+
Fort Berens Estate Winery.
1881 Highway 99 North
Lillooet, BC
Canada
Phone: 250-256-7788
Email: info@fortberens.ca
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