Ryan McKibbon.
The past two years have brought significant change to Black Hills Estate Winery. The devastating cold event that wiped out British Columbia’s 2024 grape harvest forced wineries across the province to rethink how they would navigate a vintage without local fruit.
At Black Hills, it coincided with another important transition: head winemaker Ross Wise returned to his native New Zealand in November of 2024, handing the reins to Ryan McKibbon, who became just the 4th winemaker in the winery’s history.
Ross and Ryan from a visit to Black Hills in 2023.
For McKibbon, the promotion was less a changing of the guard than a continuation of a working relationship that began more than a decade ago in Ontario wine country. He first worked with Wise at Rosewood Estate Winery before eventually following him west to Black Hills.
That continuity is evident in both the wines and the philosophy behind them. While McKibbon now leads the cellar, there’s no appetite for dramatic stylistic change. The focus remains on thoughtful vineyard management, minimal intervention in the winery, and continually raising the bar.
A consistently excellent tasting experience at Black Hills.
Originally from a small town in southern Ontario, McKibbon grew up on a dairy farm. Agriculture was always part of his life, but wine ultimately offered a different path. After a vineyard role at Hidden Bench, McKibbon realized he missed the winemaking side of the business. That led him to working with Wise at Rosewood Estate Winery and eventually to the Okanagan.
His first year leading the Black Hills cellar presented challenges few winemakers could have anticipated. With no meaningful BC harvest available in 2024, the winery sourced fruit from Washington and Oregon, creating a collection called Hiatus. The name acknowledged both the interruption caused by the freeze and the fact the wines originated outside BC.
The Rocks District [source: rocksdistrict.com]
The project required extensive travel throughout harvest. Fruit was sourced from multiple regions, including Chardonnay from Oregon’s Laurelwood District AVA, Sauvignon Blanc from Yakima Valley, and Viognier from Horse Heaven Hills in Walla Walla. For the reds, Black Hills sourced fruit from some of Washington’s most acclaimed vineyard sites, The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, with the wines brought north shortly after pressing.
Not a typical harvest in 2024.
Harvest became a weekly commute south of the border. “It was a typical harvest in terms of hours,” McKibbon says. “Just a completely different experience and a lot less productive with all the driving.” There were inevitable logistical hurdles involving trucking schedules, customs brokers and cross-border paperwork.
More challenging, however, was learning to work with fruit from entirely different growing regions. “The chemistry was unlike anything I’d ever seen before,” says McKibbon. “Super low acid, very high pH.” Yet the resulting wines are far more than stopgap measures. One of the more impressive aspects of the Hiatus collection is that Black Hills resisted the temptation to simply recreate its Okanagan wines using imported fruit. Instead, the team embraced the character of each region.
The upcoming Hiatus Syrah, sourced from the Rocks District, leans into the savoury, mineral-driven personality that has made the appellation famous. Likewise, the Chardonnay reflects the freshness and energy of its Oregon origins. “We didn’t want to just replicate what we do in BC,” says McKibbon.
The just released 2024 Nota Bene Hiatus Collection–definitely recommend!
Perhaps the most fascinating wine in the collection is the 2024 Nota Bene. Since its first vintage in 1999, Nota Bene has established a clear identity as one of BC’s benchmark Bordeaux-style blends. Recreating that identity with fruit sourced entirely from Washington required both creativity and restraint.
“We had 25 vintages of history to look back on,” says McKibbon. “We were blending a wine that we wanted to taste good, but we were also trying to decide what we wanted the wine to say and what story it should tell.” The final blend of 43% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 23% Cabernet Franc, captures the concentration and purity of Walla Walla fruit while remaining recognizable as Nota Bene.
While the Hiatus wines tell the story of 2024, another major project is unfolding closer to home. Black Hills has embarked on an extensive replanting program across its estate vineyards. The freeze accelerated those plans as the winery had already been evaluating vineyard renewal due to the presence of leafroll virus in portions of the estate.
Part of the estate vineyard seen from the tasting room patio.
Rather than simply replacing vines, Black Hills used the opportunity to rethink the entire vineyard. Rows have been reoriented, clonal selections and rootstocks updated, and varieties have been relocated to sites better suited to their needs.
Merlot, for example, had occupied some of the property’s hottest locations, often reaching sugar ripeness before flavour development had fully caught up. Cabernet Sauvignon now occupies many of those warmer sites, while Cabernet Franc has been moved into cooler areas. The winery has also doubled down on Syrah. “We planted more Syrah because we love it,” says McKibbon. “I think it’s the best grape to showcase the Black Sage Bench.”
The tasting room patio at Black Hills.
Carménère, a variety that has become something of a cult favourite among Black Hills wine club members, has been fully replanted as well. New plantings of Viognier will further expand the estate’s range once the vineyards return to full production.
For the next few vintages, Black Hills will continue to rely heavily on grower partners while young vines establish themselves. Estate fruit will gradually return between 2025 and 2027.
If the recent releases are any indication, the winery’s standards have not wavered during the transition. Across the lineup, from the fresh 2025 Rosé and Sauvignon Blanc to the structured 2023 Carménère, the impressive 2022 Syrah and the ambitious Hiatus wines, the common thread is quality.
Black Hills is in good hands moving forward.
The tasting also reinforced something Black Hills has long done exceptionally well: produce wines with remarkable persistence and length. McKibbon attributes much of that to patience. “We don’t do a lot,” he says. “What we do is give the wine time.”
Part of that philosophy involves allowing wines extended time to develop before sulphur additions are made, encouraging texture and complexity to evolve naturally during ageing. “It’s risky,” he admits. “But worth it.”
The coming years will require patience as newly planted vineyards mature and estate production gradually returns. In the meantime, the Hiatus wines offer an intriguing snapshot of what can happen when experienced winemakers are given high-quality fruit and the freedom to explore.
Just as importantly, they provide a glimpse of where Black Hills is headed: continuing to evolve while remaining committed to the vineyard-first philosophy that has defined the winery from the beginning.
Tasting Notes
2025 Black Hills Rosé.
2025 Black Hills Rosé
An intriguing blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre, this rosé is both fresh and expressive. Aromas of summer berries, stone fruit, and delicate florals lead into a supple yet lively palate, where juicy red fruit is balanced by bright acidity and a subtle mineral edge. Very Good+ ($30)
2025 Black Hills Sauvignon Blanc
Crisp, vibrant, and refreshing, this Sauvignon Blanc offers bright lemon and lime notes, lively acidity, and a subtle textural lift from the 8% Sémillon. Fresh, energetic, and highly drinkable. Excellent ($35)
2023 Black Hills Chardonnay
A beautifully textured Chardonnay from their Hidden Terrace Vineyard. Elegant and refined, it reveals layers of orchard fruit and lemon zest framed by subtle oak nuances. The palate is richly textured yet impeccably balanced, delivering lots of precision, freshness, and a lingering finish. Very Good+ ($40)
2023 Black Hills Carménère
The 2023 Carménère & the 2022 Syrah.
A benchmark example of the variety in BC. Fragrant notes of black cherry, ripe plum, and dried herbs give way to a richly textured palate, where savoury nuances, polished tannins, and remarkable balance shine through. Excellent
2022 Black Hills Syrah
This Syrah opens with subtle floral aromatics before unfolding into flavours of dark fruit, cracked spice, and savoury herbs. Richly textured yet remarkably fresh, it delivers impressive balance, with silky tannins and the winery’s signature long finish. Excellent+ ($50)
2024 Black Hills Chardonnay Hiatus Collection
2024 Black Hills Chardonnay Hiatus Collection.
Sourced from Oregon’s Laurelwood AVA. Aromas of citrus, pear and white flowers are layered with subtle mineral notes. Partial malolactic fermentation and restrained oak allow the vineyard character to shine. Excellent
2024 Black Hills Syrah Hiatus Collection (*Fall Release)
From the Rocks District, this wine captures the AVA’s signature savoury character. Mineral-driven and highly textural, with notes of olive, smoked herbs, crushed stone and dark fruit. Excellent+
2024 Black Hills Tempranillo Hiatus Collection (*Fall Release)
Sourced from Horse Heaven Hills. Structured and expressive, balancing dark berry fruit with earth, spice and a distinctly Mediterranean personality. Excellent
2024 Black Hills Ipso Facto Hiatus Collection (*Fall Release)
2024 Black Hills Ipso Facto Hiatus Collection.
A blend of 56% Syrah and 44% Cabernet Sauvignon. Combines the mineral edge of the Rocks District with the rich fruit character of Walla Walla, delivering power, freshness and approachability. Excellent+
2024 Black Hills Hiatus Nota Bene – New release
43% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 23% Cabernet Franc. Already remarkably approachable despite its youth. Plush black fruit, integrated tannins and a velvety texture are supported by savoury undertones and impressive concentration. A compelling Walla Walla interpretation viewed through the lens of Black Hills’ longstanding Nota Bene philosophy. Excellent+ ($70)
Black Hills Estate Winery.
4190 Black Sage Road
Oliver BC, V0H 1T1
T: +1 (250) 498-0666
Open daily 11am-5pm. Thursdays till 7pm.
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