Taking a closer look at Bourgogne wines.

On March 3rd, an exclusive tasting at the Vancouver Club provided a rare opportunity to explore the hidden gems of Bourgogne, a region steeped in tradition yet constantly evolving.

Hosted by the Bourgogne Wine Board, “Bourgogne Wines – Take a Closer Look” invited wine lovers and industry professionals to step beyond the celebrated Grand Crus and dive into the lesser-known village appellations that form the backbone of this historic wine region.

A Tale of Two Vintages: 2022 & 2023 in Focus

This tasting primarily showcased the 2022 and 2023 vintages, each with its own distinct character shaped by Burgundy’s increasingly unpredictable climate.

Derk Wilbrenninck, Sales Director for The Americas at Vignerons des Terres Secrètes/Nuiton Beaunoy

The 2022 vintage was marked by a warm, dry growing season, yielding wines of concentration and ripeness balanced by surprising freshness. In contrast, 2023, while similarly warm, experienced more climatic fluctuations, resulting in lower yields but expressive, terroir-driven wines that retain remarkable tension and energy.

Climate change continues to pose challenges for the region, with lower yields becoming more frequent due to extreme weather patterns, including spring frosts and summer droughts. As Derk Wilbrenninck, Sales Director for The Americas at Vignerons des Terres Secrètes/Nuiton Beaunoy, noted: “Each grower reacts differently depending on his plots. Some plots that used to be cool climate are now getting warmer by 2-3 degrees. Each grower is adapting.” Yet, Burgundian winemakers persist, adapting with precision viticulture and embracing sustainability to preserve their legacy while crafting wines of exceptional quality and finesse.

What Does Burgundian Style Mean?

Burgundy’s wines are a lot more diverse than many realize.

Burgundy’s signature winemaking style—often described as a delicate balance between purity, terroir expression, and minimal intervention—was on full display. The concept of Burgundian style transcends the iconic Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, emphasizing the relationship between grape and place. This tasting was a masterclass in terroir, revealing the nuanced differences between appellations and reinforcing the notion that Burgundy is as much about site expression as it is about varietal character.

Lesser-Known Gems and the Rise of Alternative Varieties

While Burgundy is synonymous with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this event highlighted the region’s diversity by introducing attendees to lesser-known varieties such as Aligoté and Sauvignon Blanc.

Paul Espitalie, Managing Director, Simonnet Febvre.

Wines from village appellations such as Givry, Saint-Bris, Rully, and Irancy showcased the exceptional quality-to-price ratio (QPR) that these areas offer. For those willing to explore beyond the famed Côte d’Or, there are outstanding discoveries to be made at a fraction of the price of Burgundy’s most renowned labels.

Simonnet-Febvre’s Managing Director, Paul Espitalie, observed an evolution in consumer preferences: “Over the past five years in particular, we are seeing a lot more interest in our wines because it seems people are looking for lighter, more fruity style white wines. They’re not looking anymore for too heavy a Chardonnay – our style is very fruity and minerally, which is exactly the type of wine more people are looking for.”

A Deep Dive into Village Appellations

A highlight of the event was the insightful seminar hosted by Mark Shipway and Sean Nelson, which guided attendees through the remarkable diversity of Bourgogne’s village appellations, spanning from the Grand Auxerrois to the Mâconnais.

Saint-Bris Sauvignon Blanc from Dampt Frères.

Attendees gained a deeper appreciation for wines beyond Chablis, discovering the vibrant expressions of Aligoté and the unexpected presence of Sauvignon Blanc in Saint-Bris.

The tasting featured 19 wineries, including well-known names such as Domaine Joseph Drouhin alongside lesser-known but equally compelling producers. Among the highlights:

Domaine Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume, revealed a fabulous Aligoté, a rare but exciting expression from Bouzeron.

Domaine Seguin-Manuel impressed with a nuanced Rully Chardonnay, a village whose wines are increasingly stepping into the limelight.

Domaine Dampt Frères showcased a beautifully structured Saint-Bris Sauvignon Blanc.

The Value in Exploring Beyond the Icons

Lesser known gems abound in Bourgogne.

For those who think of Burgundy solely in terms of its prestigious appellations, this tasting was a revelation. The lesser-known villages offer wines that embody the Burgundian spirit—terroir-driven, nuanced, and elegant—at prices that make exploration all the more rewarding.

As Burgundy continues to adapt to climate challenges, these village-level wines will play an increasingly vital role in the region’s narrative, offering exceptional quality for those willing to take a closer look.

Participating Wineries:

• Heitz
• Bourgogne de Vigne en Verre
• Maison Chanzy
• Clotilde Davenne
• Édouard Delaunay
• Maison Joseph Drouhin
• Domaine Jean FÉry
• Domaine Fourrey
• Domaine Jessiaume
• Château de Laborde
• Domaine Franck Lamargue
• Catherine & Claude MarÉchal
• Domaine Piguet-Girardin
• Prosper Maufoux
• Maison Simmonet-Febvre
• Vignerons des Terres SecrÈtes / Nuiton Beaunoy
• Trenel
• Domaine Verret
• Domaine Yvon et Laurent Vocoret