Stu Smith.

Over 50 years of winemaking, Stu Smith of Smith-Madrone Vineyards has seen more than most. From the early days of hand-clearing dense forest on Spring Mountain to cultivating a legacy of authenticity, Stu has weathered the highs and lows of an evolving Napa Valley. But no event has left a more lasting impression than the devastating 2020 Glass Fire.

“That fire changed everything,” Stuart reflects. Burned trees still stand as stark reminders of the destruction. Hydrants installed as part of proactive fire protection signal his resolve to defend against future threats. Yet the psychological and financial toll remains. “We’re still recovering,” he admits. And while the vines have proven resilient, the scars on the land – and the cost that comes with it – are not so easily healed.

A Mountain Apart

Spring Mountain, officially recognized as an AVA in 1993, sits high above the Napa Valley floor, with steep slopes, cooler temperatures, and a distinct sense of place.

The stunning property at Spring Mountain.

The rugged terrain produces wines with intense character, reflecting the unique terroir. But perhaps even more striking is the character of the people who call this mountain home.

Stu is a quintessential example. Intelligent, warm, and refreshingly matter-of-fact, he eschews Napa’s growing culture of glitz and exclusivity. Where some wineries cater to ultra-wealthy collectors with bespoke offerings, Smith-Madrone remains grounded, literally and figuratively.

“The mountain changes you,” Stu muses. “It’s not just about making wine; it’s about understanding this land and what it needs.”

Mountain vs. Valley Floor Fruit

The mountain fruit is very different from the floor fruit.

The difference between mountain and valley-floor fruit is stark, and Stu has spent decades championing the virtues of mountain-grown grapes. The thinner soils, higher elevations, and cooler temperatures on Spring Mountain result in smaller berries with more concentrated flavors and vibrant acidity.

“Our wines are a reflection of this place,” he explains. “Mountain fruit gives you structure and complexity that you just don’t get down on the valley floor.” His award-winning Riesling, with its crisp acidity and delicate floral notes, is as much a product of careful farming as it is evidence of the mountain’s distinct terroir.

The current wine lineup: sensational across the board.

The wines of Smith-Madrone are full of character – much like the man behind them. Stu’s authenticity, honesty, and willingness to “tell it like it is” have earned him admiration and respect. His approach to winemaking is straightforward: steward the land responsibly, harvest at the right time, and let the vintage speak for itself.

This thoughtful approach shines through in every bottle. Whether it’s the vibrant and refreshing Riesling, the lush and elegant Chardonnay, the captivatingly complex Cabernet Franc, or the bold and deeply satisfying Cabernet Sauvignon, each wine tells a story of care, passion, and a connection to the mountain top it comes from. “Our goal isn’t perfection,” Stu insists. “It’s authenticity.”

There’s no better education than being in the vineyard with Stu.

As wine writers, our visits with Stu are always a highlight. What makes them so special isn’t just his wealth of knowledge or his 50+ years of experience in the industry—though that’s impressive on its own—but the genuine curiosity and humility he brings to every conversation. Despite his decades in winemaking, he approaches it as if there’s still more to uncover, more to refine, more to explore. This mindset is infectious. Every visit with him feels like peeling back another layer of the craft, and we always leave not just inspired but enriched with fresh insights and perspectives. It’s a rare gift to learn from someone so seasoned yet so open to growth, and it’s a reminder that the best in any field never stop being students of their passion.

Stu talking about seeds and their relation to ripeness.

On this visit, Stu told us about a really interesting project he’s providing grapes for with UC Davis. That project’s goal was to harvest aromatic white grapes, such as Riesling, with a pH above 3.4—a threshold he wouldn’t typically aim for. However, this year presented an unusual challenge: the Riesling grapes refused to progress past a pH of 3.1, even as sugar levels climbed steadily to 26.5 Brix. “The acid didn’t respire out, and the pH stayed low,” Stu explained, describing the anomaly as unprecedented.

Unsure how to proceed, he went back to the UC Davis professor, who suggested waiting longer to see if the pH would rise. When it didn’t, the winemaker decided to document the peculiar results. “I took a sample to ETS [the lab in Napa Valley], scanned the results, and sent them over, saying, ‘We’re not lying—this is what we’re seeing. What do you want me to do?” Ultimately, the decision was made to harvest the grapes.

Smith-Madrone Vineyards.

The project involves fermenting the high-sugar grapes with a non-Saccharomyces cerevisiae strain of yeast—or possibly a microorganism that isn’t technically a yeast at all. The process is intriguing because this fermenting agent appears to generate acid during fermentation, effectively lowering the pH of the wine. “They’re hoping this method can be scaled up,” Stu shared. “We provided them with a ton and a half of Riesling to see how it works on a larger batch.”

Adding to the intrigue, the UC Davis team has also identified an aggressive yeast strain naturally occurring on the bark of West Coast oak trees. “Apparently, this yeast is incredibly potent during fermentation,” Stu told us. “They’re working on capturing, synthesizing, and potentially freezing it for commercial use.”

A Legacy of Resilience

Always grateful for our time with Stu.

As the scars of the Glass Fire slowly fade, Stu remains committed to the land that has defined his life’s work. His proactive fire safety measures and deep knowledge of sustainable farming underscore his dedication to protecting Spring Mountain for future generations.

“We’ve been through a lot,” he says, his voice steady. “But this mountain has a way of grounding you, of reminding you what’s important.”

For those lucky enough to share a glass with Stu, the experience is as complex and joyful as the wines themselves. With each sip, you taste not just the fruit of Spring Mountain, but the spirit of resilience and authenticity that defines Smith-Madrone.

Tasting Notes

2019 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay

2019 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay.

Bright gold in colour. Lovely aromas of orchard fruits and citrus notes. On the palate this shows a medium+ body that gives us good textural components; in fact hits just the right notes of viscosity for our palates. The texture is framed by juicy acidity and creates the sensations of fullness and linearity at the same time. Very intense flavours of apple and pear with a hint of honey. There is a slight nutty quality, elusive and hard to pin down, but evoking hazelnuts. The finish is long and juicy and tinged with citrus notes. So delicious!

Excellent+ (USD$45 *terrific value for this quality level)

2019 Smith-Madrone Riesling

2019 Smith-Madrone Riesling.

We continue to marvel at the fact that both great Cabernet and great Reisling can be grown from the same vineyard! Flavours of green apple, lemon and lime are delivered on a medium body with medium acid. This is lively and racy but also very textured, similar in style to some of the top Alsatian Rieslings we have tasted. Very refreshing!

Excellent (USD$40)

2021 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon

Medium dark red in colour. The aromas reach our noses well above the glass and show cherry, plum and hints of vanilla. The body of this wine is medium+ with grippy tannins that are ripe and not at all bitter.

2021 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon.

For a young Mountain Cabernet, this is surprisingly approachable. We get flavours of black currant, plum and hints of blueberry. Hints of earth and fallen leaves and complexity and interest. With a bit of swirling secondary notes of cedar box and hints of cassis can be picked up. An approachable and delicious Cabernet Sauvignon (with about 18% Cabernet Franc and a drop of Petit Verdot) that has the luxurious mouthfeel of the top Napa Cabs but the structure that uniquely comes from the mountain vineyards. Other Napa Cabs at this quality level would command at least double this price. Buy by the case!

Excellent (USD$65)

2021 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Franc

2021 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Franc.

This was our first experience with a Smith-Madrone Cabernet Franc and one of only a few experiences with this grape from the Napa Valley. Many think Napa is too hot for a “Right Bank” grape but Spring Mountain is very different from the valley floor. Beautiful deep red colour. This is a sensational red wine! Black cherry and plum get support from lots of forest floor notes. There are hints of stems, but not in any green or astringent way. After some air the nose turns more floral and becomes very pretty. The texture is luxurious, and shows both power and restraint. So complex that we pick up something new each time we return to the glass for another sip. Spectacular!

Excellent+ 

2018 Smith-Madrone Cook’s Flat Cabernet Sauvignon

2018 Smith-Madrone Cook’s Flat Reserve.

Cook’s Flat is Smith-Madrone’s top wine and in 2018 it’s a stunner. The colour is deep red with just the slightest amount of bricking at the rim. An elixir of Cabernet! With 13% Cabernet Franc in the blend this is the style of wine that make Cabernet-lovers, Cabernet-lovers. Powerful, structured for the long haul, it is reminiscent of a classified-growth  Bordeaux with its cassis flavours, cedar and earth secondary notes. This wine fill your mouth with flavour that stays there for a good minute after you swallow. The tannins have grip that creates definition without astringency. Swirling your glass brings out more complexity and lets those earthy and forest notes take turns coming to the fore. Though it can be approached now, it is on its way up and likely to be even more rewarding as the years and even decades roll by.

Extraordinary (USD$225)

Winery dog and chief golf cart chaser, Tucker.

Smith-Madrone Vineyards

4022 Spring Mountain Road

St. Helena, CA 94574

E: help@smithmadrone.com

T: (707) 963.2283

*Tasting by appointment only.