Jermann: The Essence of Friuli          

Posted on Jun 14, 2023


Friuli Venezia Giulia

Cantina Jermann.

Cantina Jermann, or more commonly known as just “Jermann”, is an iconic producer of primarily white wines that have gained a reputation among many notable wine writers as Italy’s finest. Further, they stand tall on the world stage of white wines.

Jermann is located in Friuli-Venezia Giullia, in the northeast corner of Italy, bordered by the Alps of Austria and Slovenia and the Adriatic Sea. We recently toured one of Jermann’s two winemaking facilities and tasted the rare and hard to get gems that are painstakingly crafted from their steep estate vineyards.

Friuli Venezia Giulia winery

Silvio Jermann [Source: Jermann winery].

Jermann’s winemaking history goes back several generations to 1881 when Antonio left his home in Slovenia and moved to Villanova in Friuli and began farming several crops there, including grape vines. Since the early 1970s the person at the helm of Jermann and its iconic visionary is Silvio Jermann. It’s his passion and drive that has established Jermann as world class producer of white wines, comfortable to share the table with top wines from across the globe.

Silvio has always followed his own path and never felt bound by convention. He makes his wines in his own way, respectful of tradition while constantly innovating. In addition to overseeing all aspects of his winery’s viniculture and viticulture, he is an accomplished golfer as well as a dedicated numerologist. The story of Cantina Jermann is largely the story of Silvio Jermann and that story is largely the story of the winery’s tops wine, Vintage Tunina.

When Silvio was just 21 years old, he decided to make a wine from the family’s Tunina Vineyard, an exceptional terroir that was planted before the second World War in the style of most vineyards of that time.

Jermann Winery

Jermann takes a co-planting approach to their vineyards.

Back then monoculture, or planting a vineyard to a single variety, was not the norm as it is today. More typical was a field blend of different grape varieties co-planted together. Silvio named the wine ‘Vintage Tunina’ and his inaugural vintage was from the 1975 harvest.

Vintage Tunina uses most of the varieties planted on the vineyard and varies the proportion of the grapes based upon the weather characteristics of the growing season. Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay together dominate the blend with different portions of indigenous grapes to Friuli making up the balance: Ribolla Gialla, Picolit, and Malvasia Istriana.

Friuli Venezia Giulia wine

The wine lineup at Jermann.

This is a highly unusual wine. Chardonnay is seldom blended with any other grape in the premium wine world. Sauvignon Blanc is often found as a varietal wine or faithful to its one blending partner which is Semillon. But do not be mislead by the fact that this is an unusual combination. This wine is utterly delicious. Don’t take our word for it: the most noted wine writers across the world have regularly bestowed lofty scores on Vintage Tunina (95, 96 and 97 points) as well as numerous wine competition awards.

Friuli Venezia Giulia

Jermann is committed to sustainable practices in the vineyard.

Vintage Tunina, like the rest of the white wines at Jermann, is made with meticulous attention to detail in both the vineyard and the winery.

Sustainable agriculture is practiced where chemical pesticides are eschewed. Mid-row cover crops as well as various trees are planted around the vineyards to encourage biodiversity and a healthy vineyard. Vines are carefully tended to allow grapes to fully ripen, a daunting task during many vintages in this cool and damp climate.

In addition to the Vintage Tunina blend, Jermann  produces several varietal wines as well: from indigenous grapes they produce a Ribolla Gialla, a Pinot Grigio, a Picolit as well as Pignolo and Pinot Nero, both red grapes.

Friuli Venezia Giulia

Tasting at Jermann is an absolute treat.

From international varieties they make a Chardonnay and a Sauvignon Blanc. White wines are fermented in stainless steel to emphasize freshness and fruit aspects and the Friulian style. The exception to this is their highly prized Chardonnay, Dreams, which is fermented in large neutral oak foudres.

In 2021 the majority of Jermann was acquired by the Antinori Group of Tuscany and owner producer of iconic wines such as Solaia and Tignanello, among many others. Silvio retains a minority interest in Jermann and continues to run the winery. This is the first white wine winery that Antinori Group has acquired and their first in Friuli. This is a testament to both the winery and the region.

Friuli Venezia Giulia

A beautiful winery to visit.

By Friulian standards, Jermann is a relatively large winery and that means it produces enough wine to have developed an export market, unlike many of the smaller wineries in Friuli that never make it outside the region.

But the wines of Jermann are highly sought after, with the Vintage Tunina being a collector’s darling. These wines are not easy to source, but if you ever see Jermann on a restaurant wine list or on a wine store shelf, don’t miss the opportunity to try a glass from one of the top white wine producers in the world.

 

Tasting Notes

Friuli Venezia Giulia wine

2022 Vinnae Ribolla Gialla

2022 Jermann Vinnae Ribolla Gialla

Like all the wines we encountered in Northern Italy, this wine had plenty of acidity which gives it a racy character with plenty of freshness. This is nicely balanced by the wines medium body. We get most notes of pear, apple and other orchard fruit along with lemon zest. The finish is long and shows good complexity. The acid structure should make this an age-worthy white wine.

Very Good/Excellent

 

2022 Jermann Chardonnay

This is fruit-driven wine full of bright notes of apple and citrus. There is a broad streak of minerality as well as hints of almond paste that come through after a bit swirling. Medium+ in acid, this wine has quite a bit of zip and is very on-point with today’s Chardonnay drinker that is looking for a sleeker profile and freshness over weight.

Very Good+

2021 Jermann Vintage Tunina

Friuli Venezia Giulia

2021 Vintage Tunina

This is the wine that made the winery’s reputation and the 2021 vintage shows why. Most of the blend is equal parts of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc with the balance a mix of indigenous varieties. Here the colour is deeper, leaning toward golden whereas the first two wines were more straw in colour. The profile leans more to stone fruits such as white peach with supporting notes of green apple and citrus. The nose evokes white flowers and is very pretty. Both body and acidity are medium+. The balance on this wine is quite incredible, creating a sense of power without heaviness. With air we pick up slightly exotic fruit notes like kiwi and guava. The finish is long and mineral infused. Spectacular wine!

Excellent+

2020 Jermann Red Angel on the Moonlight Pinot Nero

Friuli Venezia Giulia wine

2020 Jermann Red Angel on the Moonlight Pinot Nero

Made from Pinot Noir this is a lighter take on that variety emphasizing elegance and finesse. It reminded us of some of the more traditional Spatsburgunders of Germany. Light in body with cherry and cranberry fruit notes, plenty of spice and hints of earth and mineral. A bit more depth in the mid-palate could stand up to the intensity of the fruit and possibly enhance the tasting experience.

Very Good+

 

 

 

 

Cantina Jermann

Friuli Venezia Giulia

A visit in person, highly recommended.

Via Monte Fortino, 21

Località Villanova

Farra d’Isonzo (Gorizia)

T: +39 0481/88.80.80

5 Comments

  1. martindredmond@gmail.com'

    A wonderful read! Thank for the introduction to Jermann, ,which I wasn’t familiar with. My travel list is getting longer!

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    • It was a region and winery we knew very little about but so glad we visited — a beautiful winery making excellent wines!

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  2. kathy.g.molnar@gmail.com'

    Love to try that Tunina – sounds intriguing!

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  3. lwg.mine@gmail.com'

    Tunina on my mind! Hope to see the vineyard IRL and taste it one day.

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    • A beautiful winery to visit! Very modern (no photos or video allowed in the winery itself) and very conducive to visitors. Even on a rainy day, it didn’t disappoint!

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