Sparkman Cellars: A Degree of Excellence

Posted on Jun 12, 2024


Linn Scott at Sparkman’s new winery facility.

For nearly two decades, we’ve made frequent trips to Woodinville, Washington. Initially, our plans to cross the border and visit a small town 30 minutes northeast of Seattle for wine tasting were largely met with confusion and blank stares. Woodinville has rapidly transformed over the years, now boasting more than 130 wineries and tasting rooms, and the reactions have since shifted to enthusiastic requests to join us.

Among these wineries, Sparkman Cellars has distinguished itself as a must-visit destination, renowned for its consistent quality and outstanding visitor experience. With a new state-of-the-art facility and the expertise of winemaker Linn Scott, Sparkman is clearly committed to continually elevating both.

One of the multiple spaces within the facility.

Sparkman relocated to the former Redhook Brewery property in Woodinville’s Hollywood District in 2020, marking a significant milestone for the winery. The 30,000 square feet space encompasses its winemaking operations, its main tasting room and multiple event spaces, as well as a 5,000 square foot patio, alongside some very acclaimed Washington wineries that include Delille, Mark Ryan and Fidelitas.

Established in 2004 by Chris and Kelly Sparkman, Sparkman Cellars has seen impressive growth. Starting from scratch 20 years ago, they’ve expanded to a production capacity of 12,000 cases annually. Chris Sparkman’s role as the former Chairman of the Washington State Wine Commission Board of Directors has been pivotal, contributing significantly to the growth of Washington’s wine industry. When Sparkman Cellars was founded, there were fewer than 200 wineries in Washington; today, there are over 1,000.

Linn Scott.

Linn Scott has been instrumental in the winery’s success. Born and raised in Seattle, Linn has been a part of the Washington wine industry since 2001. After working harvests at several local wineries and Oregon’s Willamette Valley, he sought to enhance his hands-on experience with scientific knowledge.

This pursuit led him to universities in France and Germany, where he earned a Master’s degree in Viticulture and Enology. His time in Europe not only fulfilled his desire for technical proficiency but also deepened his appreciation for the winemaking traditions of those regions.

An extensive wine list including one of the state’s best Malbecs.

Linn joined Sparkman Cellars for harvest in 2010 and was named head winemaker in 2012. His passion for winemaking is obvious within minutes of meeting him and you can instantly sense his deep connection to the Pacific Northwest. Our conversation flowed effortlessly, with his answers being clear, concise, and filled with valuable insights. It came as no surprise to learn that he also teaches wine education part-time at South Seattle Community College.

At Sparkman, Linn is crafting wines from some of the most sought-after vineyards in Washington, including Boushey, Ciel du Cheval, Kiona, Klipsun, Red Willow, and Stillwater Creek. It’s these vineyards where he directs the credit for the consistent quality of Sparkman wines that regularly receive 90+ point scores from wine critics worldwide.

Winemaker Linn Scott.

“It’s said a lot…very good fruit helps you get very good wine.” The fruit quality combined with having a clarity about what one expects from vineyard sites forms the basis of his wine philosophy, “having a clear vision on where you’re headed with something and not asking something to be something that it isn’t… if they all tasted the same, we wouldn’t need to make 30 different wines…it’s fun though because you begin to recognize the uniqueness about all these different sites.”

One of the things Sparkman does that’s different from most wineries we’ve come across is that they don’t do any racking, not even with Cabernet Sauvignon. Linn believes that not racking provides an opportunity to steer a wine’s style with the cooperage.

“When I first started here, we would do one racking…but we were doing one racking and not having any real firm knowledge of what our cooperage is bringing us. We know we like the barrels, but we don’t really know…[when] comparing the neutral barrels that had been racked once, to stuff that hadn’t been racked at all…there wasn’t structurally that big a difference, so it didn’t make sense to do weeks of work for something that seems to anonymize something that’s a real expense.”

Acidity is key with Sparkman white wines.

Linn and his team crafts nearly 30 wines from a diverse range of grape varieties, including Sauvignon Blanc, Roussanne, Chardonnay, Grenache, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Syrah, Petit Verdot, four distinct Cabernet Sauvignons, and even a Port made of 50% Touriga Nacional and 50% Souzāo. This extraordinary range not only showcases the region’s unique and varied soil but also highlights Linn’s remarkable talent in producing such a consistently high quality across so many different wines.

He’s recently started making traditional method sparkling wine after several years of working on a small bubbles project with friends. He popped open a 2020 Ethereal for us to try that is 100% chardonnay (Blanc de Blancs). It spent a couple of years in bulk, another 18 months on lees in the bottle, and has just 2 grams of residual sugar dosage. We were very impressed by this first vintage and expect it to become a very popular fixture within their lineup.

Producing wine in the region is a fine balance between making the very best wines he can while also meeting the growing expectations and needs of the consumer.

“Every once in a while, you get a vintage that you just know is going to be good from the moment it goes to barrel to when you put it in bottle and beyond—’22 has been that way, ’18 was that way—where it’s just these wines where it’s almost impossible to go wrong. ’19 was much more challenging to find the right blend because we’re looking for mouthfeel. We want it to be round, we don’t want it to be too hard…if you’re a Bordeaux chateau that has wines that age longer than your children will be alive, ok you can tell that story. [But] we have no such luxury, we have to put wines in bottle that taste good today and will improve with age.”

A great balance between approachability & ageability.

From our experience tasting Sparkman over several vintages, he’s achieving that balance brilliantly. Beyond producing excellent wines, Linn’s role at Sparkman includes educating and inspiring the next generation of winemakers. His dedication to excellence and his deep understanding of both the art and science of winemaking have solidified his reputation as one of Washington’s leading winemakers.

The winery’s commitment to quality and innovation ensures it will remain a key player in Washington’s thriving wine industry. With Linn’s expertise and a beautiful new space, the future for Sparkman looks exceptionally bright.

Tasting Notes

2023 Sparkman Cellars As You Wish Old Vines Sauvignon Blanc

2023 As You Wish Old Vines Sauvignon Blanc

A delicious and juicy Sauvignon that shows lemon pith and grapefruit flavours. The wine is quite textured and steers well clear of the pungent aromas that New Zealand has brought to the category (thankfully). This is a very refreshing but serious wine. Terrific on its own but this is at a quality level that really asks to be paired with shellfish and taken seriously. Long finish that is focused and infused with citrus notes. Excellent ($USD50)

2023 Sparkman Cellars Pearl Sauvignon Blanc

100% Sauvignon Blanc made in a zesty style that shows off the variety’s grapefruit and cut grass character. Whereas the Old Vines belongs at the dinner table this wine will be more at home on a deck on a warm sunny afternoon. Lively and lithe, the focus here is freshness and simple enjoyment. Very Good ($USD28)

2022 Sparkman Cellars Lumière Chardonnay

2022 Sparkman Cellars Lumière Chardonnay

This shows just how well Washington does with Chardonnay and keeps us asking why we don’t see more of it? 50% new oak is used and 50% goes through malolactic fermentation. This creates a wine of medium body that has some volume and goes slightly against the current fashion of making wines of less depth. Chardonnay is a chameleon of a grape and can show greatness in many styles, including in the warmth of southeast Washington. Orchard fruits get lift from the mineral streak. This over-delivers for its price. Excellent ($USD35)

 

2022 Sparkman Cellars Wilderness Red Blend

Sparkman Cellars Wilderness Red Blend

This is a blend of 67% Syrah, 16% Petit Syrah, 15% Grenache and 2% Touriga Nacional and comes from some of the top vineyards, such as Olsen, Boushey, Kiona, Sagemoor and Upland. A dark, inky wine that shows both the Syrah dominance and the addition of Petit Syrah, contributing to its black fruit character. This is a viscous wine that wraps your palate in its velvety mouthfeel and coats your tongue with blackberry liqueur flavours. There is plenty of tannin to act as a counter balance to all the texture. Hedonists will be thrilled with this wine! Excellent ($USD30 *excellent value for this quality level)

2020 Outlaw Merlot Blend

2020 Outlaw Merlot Blend.

A blend of 78% Merlot, 11% Malbec and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon from top sites such as Olsen, Weinbau, Discovery and Sagemoor. Dark fruit flavours of black cherry and plum are joined by subtle notes of spice cake and hints of mocha. Medium+ body with medium tannin, this has the structure to go the long yards but is drinking very well right now. Merlot from Washington is often as big as their Cabs, and this wine is no exception. The finish is long and infused with baking spices. Excellent ($USD55)

2020 Sparkman Cellars Rainmaker Cabernet Sauvignon

2020 Sparkman Cellars Rainmaker Cabernet Sauvignon.

88% Cabernet Sauvignon with 12% Malbec, this is once again sourced from top Yakima Valley vineyards: Olsen, Red Willow, Stillwater and Sagemoor. Showing flavours of black currant and blueberry with medium+ tannin, this has a rounded mouthfeel that makes it very approachable. The fruit shows good ripeness this creates a very inviting mouthfeel. There is a slight savoury aspect to the finish which adds appeal and cries out to be served with a barbequed steak. Excellent ($USD70)

2020 Sparkman Cellars Darkness Syrah

100% Syrah from 2 of Yakima Valley’s top Syrah vineyards: Boushey and Sagemoor. Dark and inky, this has gobs of blackberry, blueberry and plum fruit. Tons of complexity comes out as we swirl our glass: black pepper, some floral notes (violet), some olive brine and a lovely toffee note on the finish.

2020 Sparkman Cellars Preposterous Malbec.

Another wine for hedonists or any person interested in just plain great wine. This is the style of Washington Syrah that brought the region fame and it will continue to endure as other fads come and go. A perfect pairing for rack of lamb. Excellent+  ($USD70)

2020 Sparkman Cellars Preposterous Malbec

A blend of 80% Malbec, 14% Syrah and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is sex in a glass! Dark fruits of black cherry and blues berry wrap themselves around your palate and coat it in a robe of velvety seduction! Very textured, the mouthfeel on this wine is terrific today and will only round out and improve in the coming years. Brown spices and earthy notes punctuate the finish. A delicious wine! Excellent+ ($USD48 *excellent value for this quality level)

 

A must-visit tasting room in Woodinville.

Sparkman Cellars

14300 NE 145th St, #102

Woodinville, WA 98072

T: (425) 398-1045

4 Comments

  1. Robin@crushedgrapechronicles.com'

    You had such fascinating conversations with him! I love the insights on racking!

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    • He was a fantastic interview, would have loved to have had him teaching my wine courses!

      Post a Reply
  2. Kathy.g.molnar@gmail.com'

    Great combination of intense education and respect for the unique features of grapes grown in various locales.

    Post a Reply
    • You would love these wines and the space is beautiful…adding it to the list for when we get back down together!

      Post a Reply

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