The stunning view from the winery patio.
When most wine lovers think of BC, their minds drift to the Okanagan with its shimmering lake framed by golden hills, sprawling vineyards, and a well-worn wine tourism circuit. But tucked away in the Fraser Canyon under the gaze of the towering Coast Mountains, lies Fort Berens Estate Winery, a Lillooet gem that continues to surprise and delight.
We’ve written about Fort Berens before (see our earlier pieces here and here), so rather than rehash their back story, it’s worth re-visiting them with their recent release of 3 Lillooet VQA wines that feel perfectly suited to the cozy, celebratory spirit of the holidays.
Fort Berens’ latest VQA releases.
Lillooet is no newcomer, but as a designated VQA region, it’s still very much in its ascent. While the Okanagan remains the poster child for BC wine, Fort Berens has quietly built a body of work in a place few outside serious wine circles may associate with high-calibre viticulture.
Their vineyards sit on sagebrush-covered benches above the Fraser River, in soils born of glacial and riverbed deposits. Thanks to a rain shadow cast by the Coast Mountains, the climate is long, hot, and dry (similar in many respects to the Okanagan), but with Lillooet’s own signature twist: cooler nights that preserve bright acidity in the fruit.
When we first visited and tasted 4 years ago, we were charmed by Fort Berens’ spirit of experimentation and ambition.
Winemaker Alex Nel.
Under the guidance of their winemaker and viticulturist, Alex Nel, that spark has grown into a steady flame.
Alex joined the winery in 2020, bringing with him international experience in viticulture and oenology, award-winning vintages from his time in South Africa, and stints in winemaking across multiple continents. His philosophy aligns perfectly with Fort Berens’ goal of producing terroir-driven wines, letting each varietal express the essence of Lillooet.
Veraison in the vineyard.
His decisions regarding yield, clones, rootstocks, and vintage-to-vintage strategies, are always made with the goal of reflecting the rugged beauty and clarity of the winery’s benchland vineyards.
That care has paid off. Under his leadership, Fort Berens has garnered its share of critical acclaim including a 3rd place finish among top small wineries in Canada at the WineAlign National Wine Awards.
We recently had the pleasure of tasting Fort Berens’ newest Lillooet VQA releases, and as our notes below reveal, these are wines we wholeheartedly recommend. They’re bottles that will feel right at home during holiday gatherings, quiet fireside evenings, and festive dinners alike.
When we first visited Lillooet several years ago, we arrived as curious enthusiasts and left as believers. We’ve returned several times since, and with this latest lineup, Fort Berens once again demonstrates why region, place, and patience matter, and why they deserve far more attention.
🍇Authenticity over hype. Fort Berens doesn’t dress itself up, it lets the landscape take the lead. These wines are shaped to express a stretch of country most people have never seen but immediately want to understand.
🍇Value with quality. Their wines routinely overdeliver. They offer precision, character, and a sense of craft without drifting into luxury-price territory making them ideal for gifting or showing up with something that genuinely surprises people at the table.
🍇A story worth telling. There’s something deeply compelling about a place that was once the site of a never-built Hudson’s Bay trading fort, now producing world-class wines. It’s a narrative of pioneering spirit; something that resonates at this time of year, when tradition and possibility intertwine.
Tasting Notes
2023 Fort Berens White Gold Reserve Chardonnay — $34.99
2023 Fort Berens White Gold Reserve Chardonnay.
A slow, steady ripening season delivered Chardonnay with striking purity. Half the fruit was whole-cluster pressed for lift, the other half saw brief skin contact for extra texture. Native fermentation and 7 months in French oak bring nuance without weight. The wine opens with stone fruit, and subtle toasted hazelnut. On the palate, it’s plush yet lifted, and generous in feel, but carried by a clean, mineral line. For under $35, this is a serious, quietly luxurious Chardonnay that over-delivers on every level.
2023 Fort Berens Wild Ferment Riesling Reserve — $29.99
2023 Fort Berens Wild Ferment Riesling.
Picked from low-yielding estate blocks, this Riesling shows the depth that comes from concentration rather than sweetness. A mix of whole-cluster and skin-contact fermentations, followed by a long, natural fermentation in mostly neutral oak, gives the wine both aromatic lift and textural elegance. Tropical fruit, jasmine, and ginger spice lead the nose while the palate is surprisingly sleek for such intensity, finishing long, dry, and mouthwatering. A tremendous value for a handcrafted reserve Riesling.
2022 Fort Berens Cabernet Franc Reserve.
2022 Fort Berens Cabernet Franc Reserve — $43.99
Meticulous handling, from hand-sorting to extended maceration, has produced a Cabernet Franc that’s both expressive and impressively composed. Fifteen months in French oak shapes a wine layered with cassis, blueberry, black currant, plum, and a dusting of cinnamon and cocoa. Full but refined, its tannins feel supple, and the finish stretches on surprisingly long. At this price, it’s one of the strongest Cabernet Franc values coming out of BC.
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