IWD: The Future (of Wine) is Female

Posted on Mar 8, 2023


Every year on March 8, International Women’s Day (IWD) is recognized globally as a day to celebrate the social, economic, cultural, and political achievements of women.

IWD banner

March 8th.

The theme for 2023 is: “Innovation and technological change, and education in the digital age for achieving gender equality and the empowerment of all women and girls.” With so many challenges facing the wine industry that touch on this theme, we reached out to some of our favourite women in wine worldwide to get their perspective on the state of the industry and what advice they’d give to women looking for a career in wine.

 

dundee hills ava Willamette valley winery

Tracy Kendall.

Tracy Kendall – Associate Winemaker, Nicolas-Jay (Willamette Valley, Oregon)

Who has been the most influential woman in your wine career & why?

TK: This is a difficult question to answer for a few reasons. Most importantly because there is not just one influential woman who has been impactful to my career but many, often from brief but poignant moments or comments that have stuck with me and I’ve carried through my winemaking tenure. Another reason this is difficult to answer is because the majority of my mentors in wine are men, of course, as there are so many more men in winemaking, particularly in leadership positions. That said, for the sake of picking one today I’d have to say Virginia Wilcox from Vasse Felix. I worked at VF early in my career when winemaking was still really just a dream and every experience I had at the winery felt impactful. Virginia was an incredibly unique winemaker, high passion, focused, brilliant and hilarious. What stuck with me about working with her was no matter how busy she was or what was going on during her day she always found a way to get her hands dirty and help with the most menial of tasks. She made the entire team feel important and her leadership philosophy has stuck with me as I’ve moved through my career.

What is the biggest challenge you face personally as a winemaker?

TK: As cliché as it sounds, work life balance is always the biggest challenge. Before I had kids the winery was my child, it consumed me and I gave it everything I had – evenings, weekends, holidays. When I had children my passion for my career and my love of winemaking didn’t change but I suddenly had to find a way to balance that passion with a new all consuming love and no matter how it shakes out, its hard and it’s complicated. Harvest doesn’t care how many children you have or whether you got sleep that night, the grapes are ready when they’re ready and you have to be there. I am lucky that my company is very supportive of my identity as a mother and I also have a very loving mother who is there  to help with the children during harvest time. Without that I don’t know how I’d be able to make it all work.

How do you balance between respecting traditional winemaking methods while introducing innovative modern techniques?

TK: At Nicolas-Jay we are as low intervention as possible. We work closely with the growers in the vineyards and our own estate to ensure the fruit is the highest quality possible and I see my job as making the right pick decision and then shepherding the wine through its fermentation and aging process. In order to be this hands off you need to closely monitor the wine and have a dynamic understanding of how to intervene when needed, to deeply understand how wine is made and when it is at its most vulnerable. In many ways it is a highly intensive intellectual process with a very hands off physical approach.

What is the biggest challenge facing the wine industry right now? 

TK: The scariest challenging facing the wine industry in my mind is climate change. The growing season is becoming more extreme and unpredictable with climate change and we are very vulnerable to climatic events that can easily decimate a vintage. From frost to fires we’ve seen both in the past few years with devastating consequences.

With less than 20% of the world’s winemakers being female, what’s the best advice you would give to young women entering the industry?

TK: Things are changing and luckily they’re changing quickly.  We’re seeing more and more young female winemakers and the community is building.  Don’t be daunted, the support is out there and it’s an incredible job. Even more than a job, wine is a lifestyle and we need women at the table.

 

Female Winemaker Stellenbosch

Nadia Langenegger.

Nadia Langenegger – Winemaker, Waterkloof Wines (Cape Town, South Africa)

Who has been the most influential woman in your wine career & why?

NL: There are numerous women in different industries that inspire me on a daily basis, but one in the wine industry that comes to mind, is the phenomenal Norma Ratcliffe who used to make wine at Warwick Wine Estate. She was the original head winemaker that put Warwick on the map. She originates from America, but nestled herself into a mainly male Afrikaans dominated industry since the early 1990’s. She is a self-taught winemaker who was making fantastic award-winning wines.

What is the biggest challenge you face personally as a winemaker?

NL: Managing the harvest team on a yearly basis. This would include trying to keep everyone motivated to work just that little bit harder and then do it all again the next day.

How do you balance between respecting traditional winemaking methods while introducing innovative modern techniques?

NL: We respect our vineyards and farm using Organic methods. The Waterkloof winery is very modern, but it’s designed to work as gently as possible. The gravity flow cellar consists of three levels to eliminate pumping wine too often. We have a modern basket press, yet we press all our white grapes whole-bunch ( highly old school) and ferment everything by using wild yeasts. This winery brings the old and the new techniques together very nicely.

What is the biggest challenge facing the wine industry right now?

NL: The first thing that springs to mind would be the drought conditions that we are facing. The vineyards are stressing and we are having to come up with innovative ideas to combat this. Christiaan Loots (our farm manager) has now started with minimal tilling, mulching all with the idea to retain soil moisture.

With less than 20% of the world’s winemakers being female, what’s the best advice you would give to young women entering the industry?

NL: Show up and give it your all. Winemaking is a fantastic industry with great people. If you show your determination and have a positive attitude you will reach your goals.

 

Ximena Orrego.

Ximena Orrego, Winemaker – Atticus Wine (Willamette Valley, Oregon)

Who has been the most influential woman in your wine career & why?

XO: I would have to say Shannon Gustafson. She is currently the winemaker at Raptor Ridge Winery and has worked all over the world. I have had the pleasure of knowing her and working side by side with her since 2017. I admire her attention to detail, her constant curiosity and her amazing palate. She has been very generous with her knowledge and willingness to teach me many things!

What is the biggest challenge you face personally as a winemaker?

XO: The biggest challenge is also the biggest opportunity and why this continues to be interesting to me.  Every vintage is different and there is always room for learning and growth.

How do you balance between respecting traditional winemaking methods while introducing innovative modern techniques? 

XO: I am a romantic when it comes to wine, and I really value tradition, but I also realize that as our climate changes and new challenges come to us we have to try new things and sometimes get out of our comfort zone.

What is the biggest challenge facing the wine industry right now?

XO: The wine industry is full of challenges. As a small business owner where I am not only focusing on winemaking activities but also on sales and marketing and all aspects of our operation, I am concerned about the impact of our changing climate, overall production costs, soaring shipping costs and how best to serve our customers. At the same time, because we are small, we are also able to be very flexible and nimble so it is important to always be looking ahead.

With less than 20% of the world’s winemakers being female, what’s the best advice you would give to young women entering the industry?

XO: I have often said this in the past, but I strongly believe it to be true: Dream big and be ready to work extremely hard and take risks. I think getting a formal education is key as well as learning through internships in various areas of the industry – not just in winemaking. The more you know the more options you have and the more valuable you become. I think it is important to understand all aspects of the business. If you can find a mentor who is willing to share their knowledge and advocate for you that is great too. But remember that your biggest advocate is yourself!

 

Haywire wines

Christine Coletta

Christine Coletta – Co-Owner Haywire Wines Okanagan Crush Pad (Okanagan Valley, Canada)

Who has been the most influential woman in your wine career & why?

CC: Trudy Heiss, who along with her husband George, were the founders of Gray Monk Estate Winery. Trudy was a straight shooter, who didn’t mince her words. She had a lot of famous quotes, but her overall philosophy was that talk is cheap and action is what counts. She also advised me to “never live on the winery property”. She gave this advice while we sat in the kitchen of her house which overlooked the winery with a glass of wine in hand. A giant delivery truck was pulling up to the winery after hours. Trudy sighed, put down her glass of wine, put on her coat and headed out to deal with the mystery delivery. This was a regular occurrence, and her point was, that your life is not your own when you own a winery and to separate it out when and where you can.

What is the biggest challenge you face personally as a winemaker?

CC: I think the biggest challenge that we all face is carving out a unique space for ourselves and our products that separate us from our competitors and that expresses our commitment and pride without appearing too braggy or egotistical.  We all tend to communicate how great everything is (even when times are hard and challenging). After all, we are “living the dream”. Our customers don’t need to know, and shouldn’t be concerned, with the issues we face as an industry.

How do you balance between respecting traditional winemaking methods while introducing innovative modern techniques?

CC: Sometimes what’s old is new, such as amphora and the use of concrete tanks for example.  They’ve both made a grand comeback on the global wine scene. There is always a balancing act between finding new ways to employ old methods. An example of that would be Ancient Method sparkling wine, which is the old way of making carbonated wine in bottle. New technology helps with the disgorging and final processing, which enhances overall quality of this old classic.

What is the biggest challenge facing the wine industry right now?

CC: Labour shortages and housing for staff are big issues but not unique to our industry. A lack of grape supply is hitting all of us because of climate change. The biggest challenge in my mind is navigating the regulatory system between federal, provincial, and local governments. It’s endless, it’s exhausting, it’s expensive, and it’s nonproductive and unnecessary.

With less than 20% of the world’s winemakers being female, what’s the best advice you would give to young women entering the industry?

CC: Channeling Trudy Heiss once again, “talk is cheap, it’s action that counts”. The female winemakers I have come across, understand that this is a tough business and everyone on the team needs to add value and push for excellence.  I’ve worked with some spectacular women in the wine industry. It’s been a real honour to watch many of them grow and excel.

Cowichan Valley BC wine

Michelle Schulze.

Michelle Schulze, Winemaker – Venturi-Schulze Vineyards (Cowichan Valley, Canada)

Who has been the most influential woman in your wine career & why?

MS: My mum has had the biggest influence. Not only because she’s smart, but because she has been able to accomplish an incredible amount in her life not only in her career (microbiologist, teacher, entrepreneur) but also because she managed to raise 4 well adjusted kids while doing everything else.  It’s not my place to say a lot on the subject, but she overcame a lot of adversity to be who she is today, and I remind myself of that when I’m feeling sorry for myself as I’m prone to doing sometimes.  I’m not sure if I would have turned out the way she did had I had her same early experiences in life.

What is the biggest challenge you face personally as a winemaker?

MS: For me?  Well, honestly, it’s the difficulty I sometimes have asserting myself in the winery in the shadow of two very established and confident predecessors. I work in a family business. That comes with its whole set of situations that likely require therapy to work out.  My step-father, who is in his 80s now was once referred to a benevolent despot. You feel me? As I approach 50, I keep thinking to myself “So, when do I feel like an adult?  Am I there yet?” But maybe that’s not so surprising given I’ve been at the farm, although in an evolving capacity, since I was 19 years old.

How do you balance between respecting traditional winemaking methods while introducing innovative modern techniques?

MS: Being in a new world winemaking region I don’t feel this pressure as much as one might feel it were they in Champagne for instance. Or Tokaji or Tuscany or Rioja etc. Most things are built on solid foundations of tradition. But that doesn’t mean things can’t be done differently. It’s a fine line between feeling paralyzed by tradition for the sake of tradition and running with wild abandon down the path less travelled. Or bush whacking your own path and being brave enough to go “Well shit, that didn’t work out.” if it went sideways. Try again. You don’t have to revert all the way back. Of course, I say this like it’s not my job on the line. But for the love of all things decent in the world, do not try to gaslight the consumer into convincing them a mess up in production is just another “natural wine” that they’re somehow supposed to feel wrong for not liking. Gatekeeping still happens a lot in this industry on the consuming end, but it also happens in production. It annoys me. I’m annoyed.  Sorry.  Wait, no, I’m not sorry. I’m annoyed.

What is the biggest challenge facing the wine industry right now?

MS: Oh man. I’m not sure I can call the biggest because I live in my very small and self-limited world.  Climate change is pretty big. Water in areas that rely on irrigation stand out to me as pretty major. For us, it’s taxation and onerous redundant reporting.  But I’m just not a very good office person.

With less than 20% of the world’s winemakers being female, what’s the best advice you would give to young women entering the industry?

MS: Do what you like.  If you’re getting a traditional degree education that’s awesome. But be prepared to relearn a lot and get comfortable with that. Find other people that are good to be around. Value yourself and don’t work for free. Or if you do, don’t do it for long. And if you’re like me, and someone tells you that if you wore a different shirt, you’d probably sell more wine, don’t hesitate to tell them off.  I didn’t say anything. I regret that.

 

Okanagan bc winery

Christa-Lee McWatters.

Christa-Lee McWatters – General Manager, TIME Family of Wines (Okanagan Valley, BC)

Who has been the most influential woman in your wine career & why?

CLM: Danielle Giroux (Director California Wines Canada at California Wine Institute). Danielle was a manager-turned-mentor of mine who continues to be an inspiration. She became a great leader and it’s the growth that I saw in her that inspires me every day. Her collaborative approach, drive, and strategic thinking encourage me to lead in a similar manner.

What is the biggest challenge you face personally as a GM of a winery?

CLM: Managing multiple departments that are so varied in scope – winemaking, viticultural, restaurant, multiple tasting rooms, sales and marketing, and finance – definitely has its challenges. All this while continuing to drive the business forward and trying to be innovative.

How do you balance between respecting tradition while introducing innovation?  

CLM: We honour our heritage and the pioneering spirit of our founder while continuing to push the boundaries to enhance quality.

What is the biggest challenge facing the wine industry right now? 

CLM: Managing skyrocketing input costs while maintaining value for the consumer – this is undoubtedly something all wineries, and indeed small businesses, are currently grappling with.

What’s the best advice you would give to a young woman entering the industry?

CLM: Be your authentic self.

 

Okanagan Falls winery

Tanya Martin.

Tanya Martin – General Manager, Blasted Church Vineyards (Okanagan Valley, BC)

Who has been the most influential woman in your wine career & why?

TM: Senka Tennant. I met Senka at the very beginning of my wine career when she was studying wine and viticulture and arrived at Hester Creek for a student work experience stint. In the short time that she was there, I witnessed Senka embrace learning every aspect of the business, from digging trenches in the vineyard, to cellar and lab work, to customer service in the wine shop. I was so impressed with her work ethic (no job was too big or too small to learn and do), and her hunger for knowledge in all aspects of winery operations. Senka obviously went on to become a very well-known and respected winemaker for Black Hills and then Terra Vista, and her wines have, of course, impressed both myself and wine lovers around the world. That was almost 30 years ago now, but I continue to be influenced by both that memory and Senka’s ongoing influence on the wine world.

What is the biggest challenge you face personally as a GM of a winery?

TM: Undoubtedly the lack of enough hours in the day! That, and maintaining a good work/life balance.

How do you balance between respecting tradition while introducing innovation?  

TM: It’s important to respect traditions, but not at the expense of innovation. I believe change and growth through innovation is important to keep our wines and our brand at the highest level of quality and presentation. For me, innovation will almost always be more important than tradition.

What is the biggest challenge facing the wine industry right now? 

TM: Mother Nature, for sure, is always the biggest challenge in farming – of any kind. Vines in particular require tender care, which climate change does not always offer. The honour of my main challenge currently, however, must go to over-regulation on liquor licensing.

What’s the best advice you would give to a young woman entering the industry?

TM: Listen to and observe everything that goes on around you. Read every piece of paper and wine magazine that crosses your desk, even if it looks mundane. Interact with and rely on your peers – someone has usually experienced whatever you need to know, and they are always willing to share. And always, always, keep an open mind… there is always something new to learn in this industry.

 

6 Comments

    • Cheers to another amazing woman in the wine industry!

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  1. Robin@crushedgrapechronicles.com'

    I find it insightful that 5 of the 7 mentioned climate change or drought as one of their biggest challenges and concerns.

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    • Yes…while not entirely surprising, it’s still a bit shocking.

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  2. martindredmond@gmail.com'

    Your questions are thought provoking and insightful…as are responses. No doubt that women have (and to some extent still face) a myriad of challenges in a space dominated by white males, but so many of their responses can be helpful (and are inspiring for anyone) who faces challenges. Brava!

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    • Not to mention women of colour are even more underrepresented. We’re looking forward to continuing the conversation with our interviews and highlighting more inspiring women with our future advinetures!

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